prairie girl musings

Category: Travel

We moved back to Canada (during a pandemic!)

Well, it’s been over a month since I shared an update with you all. In between packing up our home, throwing Nick a surprise 30th birthday, finishing up work projects, and moving continents, life has been hectic.

As you’d expect, travelling home was mildly stressful. We wore masks for the entirety of three flights and layovers with the exception of meal breaks during our long haul to Auckland to Los Angeles. After having not worn masks in New Zealand (they were not required during the first outbreak) it was a slight adjustment. It took us three days to get back to Saskatchewan as flight options are understandably very limited right now. We overnighted near LAX and it was a ghost town due to safe-at-home orders.

After landing at the Regina airport,, we drove ourselves to the family cabin at Crystal Lake for our 14-day quarantine. Fortunately, neither of us got sick and we ended up having the most relaxing time. The weather was BEAUTIFUL, so we made the most of it. We did TRX workouts on the deck, made cocktails and applied for jobs (more on that later…) It was the break we didn’t know we needed.

After quarantining, we drove home to Yorkton to spend a few weeks with my family. My sister, Stephanie and her partner, Mark were home (from Saskatoon) for the long weekend, so it was the first time we were all together in over a year. I hadn’t felt so at ease in forever — the anxiety and stress of moving countries dissipated as I hugged my family, soaked up the endless sunshine and 9pm sunsets. We ate all my favourite meals, watched Hamilton outside on the projector, and enjoyed each other’s company. As cliché as it sounds, there’s nothing quite like a pandemic to make you realize what’s important in life. With everything going on this year, I had my doubts about the added burden of relocating. As it turns out, returning home and being close to family feels like the right decision.

The three weeks zoomed by and we soon found ourselves packing up (not that we had much to pack up) and moving to Vancouver. First, we stopped in Saskatoon and Nicole Buhler captured some sunny imagery of the six of us (eight, if you count Loki and Poet!) My parents were tied up with work and unable to take the time off, so we’ll have to get full family photos at Christmas or as soon as our littlest family member arrives (I CAN’T wait to be an auntie!)

I also caught up with some pals and relatives for physically distant catch ups in Saskatoon, Calgary and Kelowna. The scenic drive across Alberta to British Columbia was good for the soul. I don’t think I’ve ever truly appreciated just how stunning (and vast) our country is before. Having previously lived in Toronto and explored the Maritimes, there’s plenty I haven’t yet seen out west. We were amazed by how similar the landscape in Lake Country (Okanagan) is to Queenstown. Soon after, we arrived in Vancouver to settle in and find a more permanent home. It’s been a whirlwind so far, but we’re thrilled to be here.

As we settle into our new rhythm here in Vancouver, I’ll be sharing more about apartment hunting, furnishing our new place, and our experience WFH. If you ever want to chat, my comments section and DMs are always open.

September 1, 2020
West Coast Adventures with Reefton Distilling Co.

I recently spent a few days in Reefton, one of my favourite West Coast towns (and arguably its most charming!) It was my final road trip with my dear friend, Nancy and we had exciting plans to visit Reefton Distilling Co., home to New Zealand’s best gin, Little Biddy Gin.

I first discovered Reefton Distilling Co. during a quick stop in Reefton on our way to a friend’s bach in Hector. The distillery itself is stunning, housed in one of Reefton’s original buildings dating all the way back to the 1800s. It originally served as a general store that distilled vinegar. The team even found an old glass gin bottle under the floorboards while restoring the building prior to opening the modern distillery.

While Nancy took photos, I chatted to the team about the company’s brief, but impressive history. I loved speaking with Patsy Bass, the distillery’s founder who was born and raised in Reefton. She returned home to open the distillery, in the hopes of creating jobs and bringing people to the area. Patsy has a remarkable vision for the future and plans for the distillery that extend well beyond her lifetime. Her love for her hometown is contagious and I felt emotional hearing about her plans for expansion. We even had a sneak peek at the new premises, which is across from the old railway station on the outskirts of town. The impressive site will certainly be a destination in its own right and I can already envision a return trip.

The distillery has always belonged to the people of Reefton and many residents own shares in the company. Locals speak about the distillery proudly, with a sense of ownership. We stopped in for lunch at Reef Cottage and the cafe owner immediately asked us if we were heading to their distillery. It was heartwarming to see locals backing this new venture (Reefton Distilling Co. is only 21 months old) and everything it has done for their community.

Formerly a mining town, Reefton was heavily reliant on gold and coal. Thanks to the creativity of people like Patsy, the town has been revitalised and Kiwis have a new reason to visit this historic destination. For a town that’s nearly 150 years old, Reefton has aged well and continues to draw crowds from across New Zealand.

If you haven’t tried Little Biddy gin, you must. It’s been crafted in honour of West Coast legend, Bridget ‘Biddy’ Goodwin. She was a well-known, pipe-smoking, gin-toting, 4-foot tall gold prospector who had escaped her abusive husband in Ireland and spent her final 18 years in Reefton. The team’s hunt for native botanicals often takes them deep into the West Coast rainforest where Biddy once fossicked for gold. It’s the most popular offering at Reefton Distilling Co. and its flavour is truly reflective of the Coast. Botanicals including watercress, snow moss, rimu, horopito, and tarata (to name just a few) are foraged on the surrounding hills and give the gin its distinct West Coast flavour.

Speaking of foraging, Nancy and I were treated to an excursion with both the Reefton Distilling Co. team and Brand Ambassadors, Nigel and Steffan MacKay. The MacKay twins are known throughout the region and possess a wealth of local knowledge in regards to both Reefton’s history and water sources. Now 72, they grew up in the bush, still head out walking every day, and continue to prospect water sources for the distillery. While we were in the bush, they talked about their collection of whisky vessels, which they believe is the largest collection in Australasia. Customers will soon be able to pre-order their new Moonlight Creek Whisky with the first batch getting closer to being put down. Some of the MacKay Twins’ collection of vessels are on display at the distillery.

During our time in Reefton, we stayed at Cowshed 488 in Totara Flat. If you live in New Zealand’s South Island, you’ve likely seen photos of this stunning property on Instagram. Located about 20 minutes out of Reefton, Cowshed is the perfect escape for families or friends. Situated on a dairy farm and across from the stunning Paparoa mountains, this rural retreat is home to a variety of bird and cow life. The gorgeously styled home has three bedrooms, a spacious kitchen and beautiful lounge for relaxing or entertaining. Every detail has been carefully considered and it’s the kind of home you’d see in an interior magazine or blog. The owners, Georgina and Steve left us a basket full of local food to enjoy during our stay and we instantly felt at home.

Reefton is an age-old town steeped in history and character. To witness its transformation is a remarkable experience and I’ll cherish my visit for years to come. From getting to know the locals to foraging with the MacKay twins, it was a New Zealand adventure I won’t ever forget. Luckily, I have a bottle of Little Biddy Gin tucked away in my suitcase to remind me of this truly special place and the people who call it home.

Photography by Nancy Zhou. You can find more of her work here.

This post is in partnership with Reefton Distilling Co., but all opinions are my own.

July 23, 2020
Dunedin City Guide

Located on the east coast of New Zealand’s South Island, Ōtepoti Dunedin has a rich heritage and is known for its interesting inhabitants. My first time properly exploring Dunedin was during iD Fashion Week in 2016, not long after I moved to Christchurch. The experience left a lasting impression, and Dunedin has been one of my favourite New Zealand cities ever since. It’s filled with creative, friendly souls who go out of their way to have a chat and share stories about their community.

With domestic travel back on the cards, Nancy suggested taking a trip to Dunedin. Nancy is an incredibly talented photographer and I knew we had to document our experience in a way that would be helpful for Kiwis travelling their backyard. Thankfully, we had the help of the team at Dunedin NZ to put together an action-packed itinerary and we discovered our fair share of incredible establishments.

If you’re someone who enjoys wandering around cities, stumbling into art galleries and lingering in cafés, you will absolutely love Dunedin. Its compact size makes it walkable and manageable whether you have a day or a week to explore. Here’s what we did during our three days in Dunners:

STAY
We based ourselves at The Terminus Apartments, just off Vogel Street in the Warehouse Precinct. Our two-bedroom apartment reminded us of a New York loft with its exposed brick walls and high ceilings. We spent every evening taking in the stunning sunsets over the city. The spacious unit had a stylish lounge, a full-service kitchen, even a workspace, and honestly, we didn’t want to leave.

SIGHTSEEING
Stargazing with Horizon Tours was an otherworldly experience and a highlight of our time in Dunedin. The Otago peninsula coastline yields breathtaking views of the night sky and we were lucky to have the clearest night for our tour of the southern skies.

After being greeted by our charming guides, Kylie and Lyndon, they each pointed out celestial points of significance (most of which can be viewed with the naked eye!) Kylie sang a waiata and shared stories about Māori myths of creation, of how Te Ao Marama – the world of light emerged. Hearing the stories of Māori ancestral heritage added to the magic of the tour; it truly is a point of difference. The four-hour excursion includes a light supper, a hot beverage, (I loved my detoxifying Kawakawa tea) plenty of blankets and the comfiest chairs (with headrests!) for optimal stargazing.

As a coastal city, Dunedin has beaches scattered along its coastline and around the Otago Harbour. If you’re visiting during the summer months, the beaches are a must. It was sunny, but quite chilly during our stay, but we stopped by St. Kilda on our way to Larnach Castle.

After our visit to the seaside, we carried on to Larnach Castle where we were greeted by owner and CEO, Norcombe Barker. Having grown up in the castle, Norcombe shared its fascinating history as well as his experience renovating the castle with his parents. When they purchased it in 1967, it was in a state of near ruin and the ballroom was being used to pen sheep!

After wandering around the enormous, 25-room castle and the gardens, we were treated to high tea beside the fire in the historic ballroom (and former sheep pen). The space often plays host to various events and celebrations — from weddings to galas and the annual winter ball. We didn’t ask Norcombe about any specific ghost sightings, but he did tell us about one particular incident in 1994 when Castle of Lies, a play on the Larnach family, premiered in the grand ballroom.

We also stopped by one of city’s most prominent landmarks, The Dunedin Railway Station. Dating back to 1906, this magnificent building is often referred to as the Gingerbread House. Not only does the railway station play host to iD Fashion Week (the longest and most incredible runway in the world!) it’s also home to the Otago Farmers Market every Saturday.

EAT & DRINK

Precinct Food
If you’re looking for a twist on the usual breakfast fare, be sure to stop into Precinct Food on Vogel Street. Owner and director, Liz Christensen retrained as a chef eight years ago and cleverly uses food to tell stories. After buying a catering company, she used the space for creative events and it reluctantly became a café soon after. You’ll find a few classic favourites on the menu, like eggs benny and the big breakfast, but there are plenty of dishes that push the boundaries including their carrot and tofu dumplings.

Good Good
According to my friend, Jared, Good Good has the best burgers in New Zealand. I trust Jared with burger recommendations and he’s never failed me. As soon as we stopped in for lunch, I knew we were in for a treat. The space is a converted garage with pink neon signs and casual seating. Even though the kitchen is small (it’s housed in a small caravan onsite), the burgers that emerge are incredible. We shared the buttermilk fried chicken burger (Nancy’s favourite) and the beef burger (my favourite) with parmesan tater tots. As many of my readers will know, I’m a bit of a burger fiend, and these did not disappoint.

Side On
In search of freshly baked goods, we headed straight to Side On on Moray Place on our last morning in Dunedin. After taking one look through their window, we knew we needed to sit down for breakfast, too. Their breakfast offering is small, I think most dishes feature freshly baked bread in some form with various toppings. Nevertheless, it was satisfying and I left with a cardamon bun and a few slices to snack on later.

The Swan
Tucked away on Bath Street, The Swan officially opened in January this year and quickly became a local favourite. You’ll immediately notice the gorgeous shopfront adorned with a swan, which happened to be retrieved from a pond in Balclutha. Open from 8am until 4pm during the week (Monday to Thursday), The Swan stays open late on Friday and Saturday nights and there’s live music on Saturdays. The food here is noteworthy with chef Mikhail making everything in-house from scratch. We ordered the impressive platter, which consisted of salmon, (they smoke it themselves) a whole loaf of freshly baked ciabatta, beetroot, pesto, pickled onions (again they do all their own pickling) and three types of cheese from local suppliers. Paired with a pinot noir from Central Otago, it was a memorable way to spend our afternoon.

Heritage Coffee
Vogel Street is home to so many excellent cafés, bakeshops, and eateries, but we were immediately drawn into Heritage Coffee with its moody interior. It proved to be the perfect spot for a coffee in between meetings. Heritage serves coffee made with beans by small batch local roaster, Common Ground and classic breakfast staples like avocado toast and eggs benny. If you’re after a place to meet a friend or client, it’s a solid option in the Warehouse Precinct.

Catalyst Kitchen
A new spot near the Octagon, we had coffee at Catalyst Kitchen on our first full day in Dunedin. From what I’ve heard, the food offering is equally delicious with plenty of healthy lunchtime options.

There were a few spots we didn’t have the chance to make it to this time around, but I also recommend Allpress Roastery, which is worth a visit for its beautiful building alone. Grab a coffee or some beans on your way to the university or the Otago Museum. No7 Balmac is another favourite of mine for either brunch or dinner, located up Maori Hill.

Ocho Chocolate Factory
A trip to Dunedin isn’t complete without stopping by Ocho, Otago’s own craft chocolate shop and tasting room. I initially discovered Ocho at the Otago Farmers Market (held on Saturdays at the Railway Station — highly recommend!) In addition to factory tours, they offer chocolate tastings where you can learn about what’s involved in making chocolate. During the 25 minute tastings, you’ll see the team roast, grind, temper and wrap chocolate by hand and then taste the difference between cacao from Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and Fiji.

Bay Rd
Next door to Ocho, you’ll find Bay Rd, which is home to Dunedin’s best peanut butter. The Hastie Brothers batch roast the peanuts before chucking them straight in the grinder, the result is some of the freshest peanut butter imaginable. Their café is temporarily closed, but stop by for a fresh jar and a chat. I’m team crunchy, but I’ve heard their smooth PB is equally delicious.

And just like that, our trip to Dunedin was done and dusted. Nancy and I had the best time together and realised that despite regularly visiting this city, there was even more to discover. While international travel might not be an option for awhile, we’re spoiled for choice right here in New Zealand. Whether you travel to Dunedin frequently or you haven’t been in years, head down for a weekend and you might be surprised to find a world class city here at home.

Photography by Nancy Zhou

*This trip was a press trip with Dunedin NZ

June 14, 2020
A Case For The Underdog City

In just over month, we’ll be boarding our flight back to Canada after 4.5 years in Christchurch. So now is as good a time as any to reflect on our time here in the Garden City and make my case for the underdog, ill-represented city. A large portion of my audience is based overseas, so if you’re thinking of moving to (or even visiting) New Zealand, here’s why I think you should consider Christchurch:

There’s something to be said about big cities with international reputations. You know the places: Paris, New York, London, Sydney, Tokyo, Vancouver, Auckland… the list goes on. They are popular places to live and visit for a reason and are all #blessed in one way or another. It’s easy to see why they receive a lot of attention and don’t get me wrong, I LOVE these cities with all my heart. When Nick and I were planning on moving back to New Zealand, our obvious choice was Auckland. It’s where we met, where we both studied and had plenty of friends, and it’s the business hub of New Zealand with its fair share of opportunity. Instead we chose Christchurch to many people’s dismay.

At that time, Christchurch was still recovering from the earthquakes (and still is) and I remember preparing myself for the worst. To my surprise, I fell in love with the city and grew with it as new businesses popped up around me. Despite being a small-ish city, Christchurch is one of the most dynamic places in the world. I visit Auckland and Wellington semi-regularly and have been to Queenstown more times than I can count. In my opinion, Christchurch, at this moment, is a more interesting place to be. We have some of the most innovative cafés and restaurants in the country and our North Canterbury wineries like Black Estate, Greystone and The Bone Line make New Zealand’s best wine. I’ve written a lot about Christchurch’s merits on an urban scale (have you seen our bike lanes?!) but it’s most appealing for the quality of life you can have here. Buying a house isn’t merely a pipe dream, work-life balance is a reality for most (and definitely way better than anywhere else I’ve lived…) and there are beautiful beaches and hiking trails on our doorstep. It’s really a goldilocks city in that sense. There are issues, of course, which I (and many others) have discussed at length, but won’t get into today.

I was actually inspired to write this blog post after a conversation I had recently. The guy said he would never visit Detroit or Pittsburgh, which I found fascinating. These two rust-belt American cities have negative reputations due to a myriad of reasons including faltering economies. They’re not high on anyone’s travel bucket list, but will end up surprising those who do visit. They’re two of my favourite underdog cities where artists and creatives from New York and Los Angeles flock when they can no longer afford to spend more than half their income on rent.

Christchurch is the definition of an underdog city. It’s been put to the test countless times yet those who visit are continually impressed by the warmth and generosity of its residents. Spend some time talking to any of the young creatives who inhabit this city, and their energy will inspire you. I’ve lived four of the best years of my life here, gaining a sense of community within its central city streets, attending world class festivals, ballets and operas, and perhaps most importantly, connecting with beautiful, likeminded people at every turn.

So, the next time you write off an underdog city, I urge you to give it a second chance.

March 5, 2020
Long Weekends In Marlborough

Labour Day marked the first long weekend we’ve had since June! Needless to say, it was the perfect excuse to get out of town and explore a new region.

We’ve been to Nelson and Picton a handful of times (I’ve even caught the ferry a couple times…) but had never properly explored Blenheim and Marlborough. With December and January assignments looming, I decided it was finally time to explore the culinary offerings of this well-loved region.

Nick is usually pretty keen to tag along on any work trips I have in the pipeline and this was no exception. We left Saturday morning, stopped briefly in Kaikoura to refuel and then carried on our way. The drive from Christchurch is only four hours, so it’s ideal for a long weekend away.

Upon arrival, we checked into the quaint Boutique Bunker, which is just off the main drag. We found Blenheim to be unusually quiet the entire time we were visiting, but it was still helpful to be based centrally so we could wander to the pub to watch the game. We had a quick meander through town and then set off for dinner at the highly lauded, Arbour.

I won’t give too much away, but the seasonal tasting menu is well worth it’s price tag (especially if you opt for the wine pairings). Our seat overlooked the vineyard and the beautifully manicured garden and guests venture outside in between courses (wine glass in tow). Everything was beautifully presented and I like how the service was friendly and relaxed. Sometimes you’ll visit a fancy restaurant and it oozes pretension, not Arbour. Pro tip: go early and you’ll save $20 on their set menu during Foodie Hour.

The next day, we were picked up bright and early to begin our self-guided cycling tour with Explore Marlborough. The wind was aggressive, but we managed to make it to a total of six wineries and one brewery. Here’s a quick summary of where we went and what I’d recommend should you be visiting Marlborough:

Te Whare Ra: Our first stop of the day was at Te Whare Ra, a small vineyard and winery located in the Marlborough sub-region of Renwick. One of the oldest vineyards in Marlborough, TWR is certified organic and their wines were my favourite of the day. I’m looking forward to sipping on their Toru and Riesling all summer long.

Forrest Wines: Next we cycled to Forrest Wines where we ordered a tasting tray and took it outside to relax in the sun. Forrest has the best atmosphere of all the wineries we visited. Along with being able to do a tasting outside (on their bean bags, no less), they also have some epic cheese platters.

Bladen Wines: Our tour guides at Explore Marlborough also advised us to check out Bladen’s cellar door. Here we were greeted by friendly owner, Dave and his lovely dog. Both Nick and I were big fans of their rosé and will be ordering a few bottles ASAP.

No. 1 Family Estate: If you like bubbles as much as I do, I highly recommend checking out No. 1 Family Estate. It’s an invigorating stop after a day full of wine tastings.

Hans Herzog: This organic certified winery came highly recommended by a few locals and wine connoisseurs, so we knew we’d be in for a treat. Hans also has one of the larger selection of red wines in a region known for white wine, worth noting for anyone who loves red wine (myself included!)

Cloudy Bay: You can’t visit Marlborough without visiting its most famous winery, Cloudy Bay. The stylish establishment is definitely a bit busier than the other wineries, but it’s well worth a visit. Service here is less attentive, but it’s still a worthwhile visit if only for the lovely grounds and gardens.

MOA Brewery: We finished off our day with a stop at MOA, which was such a treat after a full day of wine. The casual atmosphere and food truck were absolutely delightful and I’m a big fan of their rhubarb and apple cider.

—

We spent our last day in Marlborough at Allan Scott, a family-owned and operated winery. Sara Scott gave us an extensive tour of the property, the vineyards and even the space where Cecilia Brut (my personal favourite) is made. They are one of two wineries with the equipment to create sparkling wine (also known of Méthode Marlborough). After our tour, we did a wine tasting with Josh Scott and then settled in for a long lunch and chatted with Victoria Scott. The food was phenomenal and the atmosphere is attentive, friendly and relaxing. We had such a nice time that we ended up spending the whole day here. If you’re on a tighter timeframe, I’d highly recommend stopping here for lunch in their outdoor restaurant (otherwise, grab a seat in the beautiful garden!) Oh and whatever you do, definitely get the affogato for dessert.

It was incredible chatting to Allan Scott’s three Scott children and seeing their passion for the family business. Coming from a multi-generational family business in Canada, it’s quite rare and truly special to witness.

After our long, indulgent weekend, we rolled ourselves home and slowly made our way back to reality. Have you ever been to Marlborough? Which wineries and restaurants did you like best?

October 30, 2019
PGM’s Guide To Paris

Ah, Paris. Where do I even begin?

I wasn’t even considering Paris for our studymoon when Nick suggested a trip to the City of Light. But as soon as the words left his mouth, I was eagerly researching hotels and booking our train tickets from Amsterdam. Paris has a way of doing that to people. It draws you in and makes you never want to leave.

The last time I was in Paris was in 2014 with my friend, Annie. We ate croissants and baguettes for breakfast every day and hit up all the iconic tourist spots: Versailles, Pompidou, Ladurée, you name it.

Nick hates queueing and although it was his first time in Europe, he wasn’t interested in main touristy spots (don’t worry, we still saw the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Cœur…) so we got a real sense of Paris. From having our morning cortados at tiny cafés to cycling along the Seine in electric Jump bikes and weaving through little laneways in Le Marais, we fell hard for Paris and I finally feel equipped to write a proper city guide with local recommendations, so let’s dive in.

Where to stay:

If I had to choose one hotel ‘chain’ for the rest of my life, it’d be The Hoxton. The only way I can think to describe The Hoxton Paris is understated and chic. Located in the 2nd arrondisement, surrounded by shops and restaurants, this 18th-century rowhouse is centrally located (right beside the Bonne Nouvelle metro station) and a handful of shops and cafés.

Where to shop:

L’Apartement Sézane: if you go anywhere in Paris, make sure you stop by Sézane (conveniently next-door to The Hoxton). It’s my favourite place to shop and people watch in Paris.

Merci: a general store of sorts, Merci is equal parts café, bookstore, interior shop and clothing store. Look for the red Mini in the alleyway and you’ve found the spot. I could easily spend hours combing through the shelves.

Shakespeare & Company: A bookstore like no other, Shakespeare & Company was home to the Lost Generation in the 1920s and the Beatnik generation in the 1950s. If you’re a literature lover, it needs to be on your bucket list. Pro tip: it’s swarming with tourists during the day, so opt to go for an evening event or reading if you can.

Favourite coffee shops:

Boot Café: a hole-in-the-wall, six-seater café in Le Marais, which was once a shoe shops and retains trappings of its former life. The faded Cordonnerie sign is an Instagrammer’s fave.

Dreamin’ Man: Known for their epic pastries, this is a local favourite and for good reason. Seats are super limited, but well worth the wait.

Café Kitsuné: If you’re hanging out in the former palace that’s now a public park (Paris is really cool like that) be sure to stop by Café Kitsuné for an iced latte and fox cookie.

Fragments: All day breakfast and good coffee at at leisurely pace, Fragments is worth writing home about.

Season: We regrettably didn’t make it to Season, but their matcha pancakes have been taunting me ever since.

Peonies: Truthfully, we didn’t like the coffee here (it was super weak) but the pink interior, baked goods and flowers are worth the visit alone.

Favourite restaurants:

Buvette: Open from morning until late, Buvette came highly recommended by quite a few friends and bloggers. The little neighbourhood joint is a South Pigalle favourite (located in the 9th arrondisement, but also very close to our hotel). It’s also a lovely spot for a quick snack in between sightseeing or shopping.

Pink Mamma: There’s a lot of hype surrounding Pink Mamma and as I mentioned, Nick isn’t about queueing up (especially for tourist traps), but I convinced him it’d be worth it and we both LOVED the meal we had here. We ordered way too much, but ended up devouring it all. It’s without a doubt, the best Italian food I’ve had outside Italy.

Holy Belly: Great coffee and a seasonal menu made with only the freshest ingredients, Holy Belly is popular and for good reason. If you’re craving a hearty breakfast, this should be your go-to.

Wild & the Moon: After a few too many croissants and pastries, it was time for some healthy eats at this gorgeous eatery.

We also had a delicious dinner at Rivié, the in-house restaurant at The Hoxton. It was pretty pricey for what it was though.

Lunch at Buvette

Dinner at Rivié at The Hoxton

What to do:

Well, there’s all the typical Paris spots: The Louvre, Sacré Cœur, wine and cheese beside the Eiffel Tower, Versailles, etc. I’m going to forgo delving into the typical recommendations in favour of a few spots that are still popular a bit less crowded (especially if you’re visiting during high season).

Musée D’Orsay is my favourite museum in Paris. It is home to a vast collection of Impressionist art and every room is worth exploring. You’ll find pieces by all the masters including Degas (my personal fave), Cézanne, Manet, Renoir, and Monet. It’s located on the Left Bank, housed in a Beaux Arts railway station.

Centre Pompidou: If you like modern art, you’ll want to add Pompidou to your Paris itinerary. The architecture was quite radical when it opened in 1977, all industrial pipes and glass, but it’s considered one of the best in the contemporary art world.

Palais-Royal: Also close to The Hoxton, this complex and former palace is the perfect place to while away a few hours with a coffee and a book. If you only have an afternoon in Paris, Palais-Royal is really Paris in a nutshell with shops, cafés, art, history, architecture, and spectacular gardens, all across the street from the Louvre.

Musée Rodin: Auguste Rodin’s former home opened as a public museum in 1919. See his drawings and sculptures up close inside then wander through the gardens to find his more famous works including “The Thinker.”

Shakespeare & Company

The Hoxton Lobby

The Hoxton is home to a few gorgeous common areas. Grab a coffee in the morning or sit outside in the sun with an afternoon cocktail.

If you’re a blogger looking for the best places to shoot in Paris, I suggest checking out Icing & Glitter’s guide to the most Instagrammable places in Paris here.

Of course, you’ll want to wander past L’Arc de Triomphe for that all-important photo op, enjoy a hot chocolate at Angelina and people watch while enjoying an Aperol Spritz at Le Barbouille in Le Marais.

Where are your favourite spots in Paris? Let me know in the comments below.

September 8, 2019
What I Really Thought Of Dubai
We’ve all read a scathing review or two on Dubai. It’s the kind of place that attracts mixed opinions.

I have friends who absolutely love it and others who swear they’d never set foot on its sandy shores. Truthfully, it’s probably not somewhere I’d choose to visit for a full-blown holiday. However, when we decided to travel to Amsterdam, (read my city guide here) I knew I didn’t want to fly all the way from New Zealand to Europe without stopping somewhere in between. I’ve been fortunate to visit most of the usual stopover destinations: Singapore, Hong Kong, San Francisco, Los Angeles and of course, Vancouver. So when Dubai came up in conversation, I was intrigued by this megacity in the desert and eager to form my own opinion about it. As an aside, Nick and I have a friend who lives in Abu Dhabi, so we were quite keen to catch up with him.

Dubai is a city of contrasts. Its population relies on expats and international labour (those dizzyingly high skyscrapers didn’t build themselves…) Its class system is very apparent from first encounter. We immediately noticed busloads of foreign workers, all crammed into non-air conditioned vehicles on 40+ degree days. Foreigners contribute to society but, as outsiders, are not part of that society. Dubai markets itself and masquerades as a modern playground on the Persian Gulf, but remains a deeply conservative Islamic state.

From an urban planning point-of-view, it’s a bit of a nightmare and completely impossible to walk anywhere. Nick and I attempted to walk from our hotel to the nearest beach and got about 200 metres before the sidewalk ended… I get that many cities were designed around the automobile, but Dubai’s sense of place seems to be borrowed from all corners of the globe. It’s like Ibiza, Guangzhou, Houston and Monaco all rolled into one. As a city, it’s a jack of all trades yet master of none.

For all its shortcomings, there are plenty of positives as well. While many people say there’s no culture in Dubai or Abu Dhabi, you only need to visit the spice souks or go for a boat ride across Dubai Creek to know that’s not true. We ventured to the Louvre and the stunning Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. All of these experiences will offer a closer look at these Emirati cities and help you understand their many facets. Riding an abra across Dubai Creek, for instance, is one of the quaintest ways to get a feel for life in Dubai. These traditional wooden boats carry about twenty people and many locals use them to avoid traffic.

Despite the extreme heat, we enjoyed exploring the desert with Platinum Heritage. On the tour, we rode camelback, drove over the sand dunes in vintage Land Rovers and enjoyed Arabic dancing and cuisine at sunset. I even tried camel milk, which was super creamy. Arabic food is delicious (so much hummus and falafel, yum!) and we loved dining outside and cooling off with watermelon and pomegranate juice. I think I drank my weight in juice during those three days.

If you’re looking for a reason to visit, the food scene alone might convince you. Many well-known chefs from around the world got their starts in Dubai. There are plenty of restaurants and cafés that are well worth visiting, but a few of our favourites included:
- Home Bakery Kitchen in the Design District
- Tom & Serg has a beautiful interior and incredible breakfast menu
- Wild & the Moon (we actually went to the Paris location) but it’s the best place for healthy smoothies and plant-based meals
- Salt – Kite Beach for the best burgers in Dubai
- Blacksmith was our favourite coffee shop in Abu Dhabi. It’s located next to NYU Abu Dhabi (yes, they have a campus here, which Nick and I both found quite surprising!)
Like in other muslim countries, women should dress conservatively in the UAE (with the exception of hotels). Covering your head is obviously essential at mosques, but wearing long dresses and pants is fine elsewhere. Out of respect, you should abide by local customs, plus it’ll save you sun damage during. Drinking is illegal except at 5-star hotels (where cocktails are $20-30 NZD a pop…) but shisha is everywhere.

I was hesitant to share my thoughts on Dubai. I appreciate every single travel experience and consider myself lucky to be able to visit far-flung destinations. I’d be lying if I said we didn’t love cooling off with overpriced cocktails at our hotel’s rooftop pool (it’s easy to lure me in…) We stayed at the FIVE Palm Jumeirah Beach. Hotels can be expensive in Dubai, but prices are heavily discounted during July/August. On a deeper level, there’s also something to be learned from every destination and I’m not one to take any experience for granted.

While I probably wouldn’t recommend an extended holiday in Dubai, (though we met a German father and daughter duo who visit every year) two or three days in the desert city is a fun way to break up long haul travel. Have you ever been to Dubai? What did you think?
August 20, 2019
Where We Went In Amsterdam

I could, without any hesitation, pack up and move to Amsterdam. It’s the perfect city with its beautiful canals and row houses, delicious cuisine, and friendly, easy-going people. And don’t even get me started on the bike lanes! Everyone cycles here and it’s truly one of the most civilised places I’ve ever been. It’s a lot more touristy than when I visited five years ago, but I suppose that’s a testament to what a great city it is to visit and to live in.

We were in Amsterdam because Nick was doing a university course at VU Amsterdam. It’s an international university where all postgraduate courses are taught in English, attracting a huge number of travellers and expats. Nick’s course was two weeks long, so I stayed for a week and went travelling with a friend for the other week (more on that in another blog post!) We took the opportunity to settle in and properly explore this liveable, beautiful city. Our friend, Alice also visited from Berlin and the three of us had such a great time.

Recently, Amsterdam’s also become a hub for entrepreneurs and freelancers. From what I’ve heard, it’s relatively easy to get a freelancer’s visa, so who knows, maybe we’ll move here for awhile…

Where to stay:
Since Nick was studying, we secured accomodation at Hotel Jansen which caters to short-stay students. It’s located slightly south of the main tourist area near Vondelpark and the Olympic Stadium, which ended up being a blessing in disguise.

Other accommodation options:
The Hoxton: This canal side hotel on the Herengracht was once the mayor’s home! The Hoxton is known for its beautifully rooms and incredible in-house restaurants.

The Pulitzer: If we weren’t staying at the university accommodation, I would’ve certainly booked a night at Pulitzer. It’s the epitome of Dutch elegance and nearly 400 years old. We just missed Pride, but they had a massive pink deck set up for the festivities!

Where to eat:
In addition to being a hotbed for entrepreneurs, Amsterdam’s also received an influx of lifestyle bloggers and creatives who are flocking to the many photogenic cafés and restaurants scattered throughout the city. We managed to visit a handful of incredible eateries during our stay and I loved both the food and the interiors at all of the following:

The Avocado Show: If you like avocados, make sure you go to The Avocado Show in Amsterdam. Everything on the menu is made using this millennial superfruit and every dish is absolutely ‘grammable.

Little Collins: Alice and I ventured to De Pijp for the most scrumptious Aussie-style brunch (and coffee). We were both such big fans of Little Collins. It’s worth noting that they have two locations in the West and de Pijp neighbourhoods of Amsterdam.

Toki: Coffee in Europe can be hit or miss, but Toki was hands down our favourite café in Amsterdam. If we lived here, we’d probably go at least weekly. With its pretty terrazzo tables and minimalist interior (it’s a mash-up of Japanese and Scandinavian-design), it’s right up my alley. Keep in mind, coffee is the focus here, so best to come for a drink and a snack rather than brunch.

Ree7: This cute little spot is a lovely place for breakfast. If you can, grab a table outside for people watching. We ordered the red velvet pancakes and avocado toast, both were delicious.

Winkel 43: The Dutch love their apple pie and Winkel is the most popular spot (and rightly so) to indulge.

Polaberry: Speaking of treats, if you have a major sweet tooth, you’ll want to hit up this Instagram hotspot (it’s owned by influencer Polina or Polabur) for chocolate-covered strawberries and beautiful cake pops.

Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx: Dutch fries are also an absolute must. There are plenty of great options, but we loved the ones at Vlaams. There’s usually a queue, but it moves quickly.

Mama Kelly: This pink palace was high on my list of places to visit and fortunately, super close to where we were staying. They’re known for their chicken and lobster, but also have some delicious vegetarian options. We ventured here for lunch on our last full day in Amsterdam and it lived up to the hype.

Foodhallen: With a handful of eateries and bars under one roof, Foodhallen is a great place to try a wide variety of concepts and cuisines. There’s even a gin bar…

Pluk Amsterdam: Part shop, part café, Pluk was my go-to for smoothie bowls and healthy breakfast options. It’s great if you’re looking for something light after having a few too many fries, stroopwafels and pancakes. It’s on the prettiest street as well, so make sure to hang around for window shopping.

Cannibale Royale: This dimly restaurant came highly recommended by quite a few people and it didn’t disappoint. I had the vegetarian burger and it was one of the best I’ve ever tried and the sides were equally tasty.

What to do:
A city steeped in history, there’s so much to explore in Amsterdam and I always find I run out of time to do everything I want to.

First things first, hire a bike. It’s the best way to get around and even if you’re not an avid cyclist, you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Just remember to always look both ways and don’t cut anyone off. Pretty much everyone commutes to work, so stick to the right so people can pass. I suggest going with Black Bikes (they have 14 locations) or Adamfiets. I rented bikes from both while I was there.

You’ll definitely want to go to the Van Gogh Museum (I’ve been twice) and to see Anne Frank’s House (it books up MONTHS in advance, so don’t delay). Both will be busy, so try to go first thing in the morning on a weekday, if possible.

Another must-visit museum is Rijkmuseum, which is located next to the Van Gogh Museum and has the largest collection of Rembrandt paintings. We also visited the National Maritime Museum (as per Nick’s request) and both really enjoyed the space and learning about the naval history that goes back 500 years. There’s also a 50-minute tour of the old ship where you can experience life aboard and have a look inside the captain’s cabin, the galley and the crew quarters. It’s a great tour for families.

On a sunny day, you’ll want to pack a picnic and spend a few hours in Vondelpark. The public park is always teeming with people of all ages. If you have time, definitely catch the FREE ferry from Amsterdam Centraal to Amsterdam Noord. A friend recommended we check out Pllek in NDSM and it was honestly the coolest bar ever. Very similar to Smash Palace, but bigger and right on the water. Amsterdam Noord also has serious Berlin vibes. Another awesome waterfront bar is Hannekes Boom, which we visited with another Christchurch friend the following day.

I hope you enjoyed reading my Amsterdam guide. If you want to see more of my recommendations, follow me on Instagram here.

Have you ever been to Amsterdam? If so, what did you think?

July 28, 2019
Christchurch City Guide — 2019 Edition

Many of our overseas family and friends are visiting New Zealand (and Christchurch) for the very first time in March, while others are returning to a city that has changed considerably since they last visited. Since receiving a handful of messages and emails about what to do in Christchurch from a couple days to a week, I figured it’s about time to update my Christchurch city guide.

Below you’ll find all my recommendations on where to eat and drink, which sights to take in as well as my must-visit beaches and favourite walks. Christchurch is having a moment, so if you haven’t been in awhile, I urge you to come for a visit.

Many of my suggestions fall within close proximity to the central city (as that’s where we live and where I think you should focus a lot of your time) as well as a few key areas I think are worth visiting if you have a vehicle.

Getting acquainted with the city//

With plenty of new cycleways, Christchurch is one of the best cities for cycling in the Southern Hemisphere. The city itself is flat and relatively compact, so it’s best explored by bike. Hire the coolest wheels in town from Action Bicycle Club on Walker Street and you’ll be ready to go.

If you’re wanting to try something a bit different, hire a Lime scooter for a trip or two. I wouldn’t recommend spending your entire weekend on Lime because that’s akin to taking Uber everywhere (it adds up quickly!) but they’re so much fun to use every now and again.

Where to stay//

The Crowne Plaza
If you’re looking to stay in the heart of the city, there’s no better place to be than the Crowne Plaza. Perfectly located just a stone’s throw from New Regent Street (the prettiest street in Christchurch), Victoria Park, the Botanic Gardens and Oxford Terrace, you’ll be able to get everywhere by foot.

There are plenty of Airbnbs scattered throughout the central city as well as in neighbouring suburbs like St. Albans and Sydenham.

What to do//

Spend a few hours at Tūranga Library
Your trip to Christchurch isn’t complete until you visit the brand new (and flashy) library. Peruse each of the four floors, experience virtual reality and spend some time interacting with the seven-metre touch screen Discovery Wall. Believe me, it’s worth checking out.

Explore the Botanic Gardens
There’s nothing better than an afternoon spent wandering through the tranquil botanic gardens. The idyllic spot makes it clear why Christchurch is referred to as the garden city. From the rose gardens to the various conservatories, it’s easy to spend hours meandering through the grounds. Don’t miss Garrick House, home to the most extensive collection of cacti and succulents in New Zealand. Ilex Cafe is the perfect lunch spot with a new incredible menu. Sit outside or grab a seat inside the bright, light-filled space.

Photo by Bayley Corfield

Visit the Christchurch Art Gallery
An iconic destination for both residents and visitors, Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetu is the city’s treasury of art, history, images, memories and ideas. Located on Worcester Boulevard, in the central city, combine your visit with a trip to the Arts Centre, the Museum, botanic gardens or for a coffee in the many nearby cafes.

Shop local at the Arts Centre
This newly restored heritage building is the centre of all things creative and cultural in the city. The Gothic Revival style building dates all the way back to 1877 and is now home to a myriad of cafes, boutique shops, art galleries and markets. Grab a coffee at Bunsen, formerly a chemistry classroom before checking out Pepa, a beautiful stationery shop. Next head upstairs to visit Frances Nation, a store dedicated to beautiful and durable wares from New Zealand makers and Indigo & Provisions for a carefully curated selection of fashion and homewares. Don’t leave before stopping at Rollickin’, the city’s best gelato shop.

Go see a show at Isaac Theatre Royal
The beautifully restored theatre has played an important part in the cultural and creative history of Christchurch since 1863. There’s always something on, from performances by Lorde to the Royal New Zealand Ballet, so be sure to check out the website for dates. It also doubles as the venue for the New Zealand International Film Festival, is a space for fringe theatre performances, talks, weddings, workshops and stand-up comedy. There’s always something on, so

Spend a sunny afternoon in Sumner
Sumner is a beautiful coastal suburb with some of the best surf breaks in the region. It’s a great place to go for a swim (or venture a bit further to Taylors Mistake, which is slightly more sheltered…) After your swim, be sure to grab an ice cream or sorbet from Utopia Ice. With flavours like Vietnamese coffee, matcha coconut and plum and earl grey, you’re sure to find something you like.

By the way, there are cycleways almost all the way to Sumner. If that feels a bit too far, there’s also a direct bus route from the Bus Interchange, which you’ll definitely want to check out whether you’re bussing or not.

Where to eat//

Miro
The restored Midland Building is, in my humble opinion, the most beautiful building in all of Christchurch. Home to communications agency, Brown Bread, suiting specialists, Crane Brothers and all-day café and restaurant, Miro, it’s a must-visit. Miro’s menu is extensive, they serve everything from colourful smoothie bowls to the more indulgent eggs benny on hash, plus Allpress cofffee to wash it down.

Here’s a closer look at Miro.

Black Estate
I’m already breaking my own rules here, but if your guests have a few days at their disposal, I’d highly recommend a day trip to North Canterbury’s best kept secret. Waipara is relatively new wine region, but is producing some of the country’s best wines. Black Estate is my favourite spot for lunch or dinner alongside a few glasses of rosé (their Treble Rosé is unbelievably good!) We made a trip here with my parents last January and had such a great time. If you’re heading to Waipara, I suggest booking accommodation here.

Twenty Seven Steps
A mainstay on every best restaurant list, Twenty Seven Steps is situated upstairs on picturesque New Regent Street. The heritage space is popular and for good reason, serving hearty, flavoursome meals made from locally-sourced and seasonal ingredients. Their wine list is mostly local and their cocktails are some of the best in the city. In 2017, they were named as one of the top 100 restaurants in the country.

Earl
New on the scene, Earl is making waves as a laidback all-day eatery in the central city. The casual but trendy Italian restaurant truly captures the essence of post-quake Christchurch hospitality. Here you’ll find satisfying Italian dishes paired with a selection of wines and cocktails. Be sure to try their Aperol Spritz, it’s one of the best in the city. Earl’s has a simple menu that’s incredibly tasty; a place you’ll return to again and again.

If you’re after some quick and easy lunch spots in the CBD, these are my top picks.

Where to drink//

Smash Palace
We’ve decided to have a post-wedding brunch at our favourite local watering hole for all our out-of-town guests. One of the most creative and unconventional bars I’ve ever visited, I’m so glad it’s our local. The vibes here are always 100% amazing and the food menu is excellent.

Gin Gin
I have been seriously limiting my drinking in the lead-up to our wedding, but could not resist visiting Gin Gin for a botanical chalice. With a gin cocktail list a mile long, this Victoria Street cocktail bar also has negronis on tap — I’m sold.

OGB
Located in the most stunning heritage building right in the heart of the city, OGB is a must! Not only are their cocktails amazing (as well as their wines) their menu is also super tasty. Their burger is one of the best in Christchurch.

Pomeroy’s
If you’re a craft beer drinker and love burgers, be sure to add Pomeroy’s to your itinerary. It’s one of the original breweries in Christchurch and their picnic tables are the best place to catch up with friends.

The Terrace
I’d be remiss not to mention the Terrace, which is home to a row of brand new bars and eateries. While somewhat touristy, it’s worth a visit for the beautiful landscaping overlooking the Avon. My top pick is Amazonita, which has a very expensive fit-out (basically the opposite of Smash Palace) and has been mentioned in countless national publications, so you know it’s good.

Best coffee shops & bakeries//
I have chosen a handful of cafés within walking distance to the central city and our wedding venue, but there are plenty of others worth visiting as well including Hello Sunday and Lyttelton Coffee Co.

If you’d like a deeper dive into some of my go-to cafés, have a look at the 10 Christchurch Cafés Worth Checking Out.

Kadett
My forever favourite, Kadett is dangerously close to my house. It’s a serene, light-filled space on the east side of St. Asaph Street. It’s the café of choice for freelancers and creative types. Try their kimchi toasties or one of their vibrant salads. Oh and they’ve got the best matcha lattes in town. Top it off with a Cakes by Anna slice and you’ll never want to leave.

Park Ranger
Given that our ceremony and reception are taking place at Riccarton House, I couldn’t resist mentioning Park Ranger, which is just around the corner. It’s a great spot for a pre-wedding coffee and snack (I have a thing for their espresso over ice with a dash of milk…) The leafy space offers respite from the busy suburb and serves up both indulgent and wholesome breakfast options.

Little Poms
A true Christchurch institution, Little Poms is a stylishly cosy spot for brunch. Serving up all your favourite brunch staples with a seasonal twist, it’s the kind of place you’ll want to return to again and again. Sharing a building with their older brother, Pomeroy’s, you’ll also find a selection of craft beer and wine available. If you like your brunch with cocktails, their mimosas and bloody marys are both worth trying!

Uncommon
If you’re looking for one of the best menus in the city, you can’t go wrong with Uncommon Café on Tuam Street. With coffee by C4 and dishes that are always changing, we’re suckers for their ‘gram worthy hotcakes and decadent French toast. Their breakfast boards are perfect for those s who can never make up their minds. They also have plenty of excellent savoury options including our favourite, For the Dads. Centrally located, Uncommon’s a popular weekday and weekend spot.

Grizzly
A fixture at the Christchurch Farmers Market, Grizzly Baked Goods have set up permanent digs in Sydenham. Along with the best bagels in town (I’m Canadian, so I’ve done my research…) you’ll want to stock up on their freshly baked bread (the rye and sourdough are my favourites) as well as their morning buns and filled doughnuts.

Best walks//

I’m not going to write too much about these walks because you can easily Google them, but I’ll quickly list my favourites:

Crater Rim
On a fine day, this track provides stunning views of the harbour, peninsula, plains and alps.

Godley Head Coastal Walk
Follow the coastline from Taylors Mistake, this is an equally good running option.

Bridle Path
The first formed link between Christchurch and Lyttelton, this one’s an epic workout. Check out Civil & Naval once you’re in Lyttelton.

Bowenvale Valley: Sweeping views of the city to the alps and coastline!

Washpen Falls: A beautiful (and not too rigorous) walk complete with waterfalls.

I won’t get into day trips because this post is all about Christchurch, but if you want to read about my ultimate place to venture outside of Christchurch, head over here.

As always, if you have any questions or additions, please feel free to leave me a comment or send me a message on Instagram (@vanessaortynsky). I’ll be sure to get back to you.

Photo by Bayley Corfield

February 1, 2019
The Best of Queenstown

You might remember my Queenstown guide from a couple years ago when Nick and I visited over Canterbury Anniversary weekend. We try to get away on long weekends whenever possible, but this year we were determined to save money (for obvious reasons). Initially, we thought we’d do a day trip somewhere nearby, but when the team at Southern PR invited us on a handful of exciting adventures, we couldn’t say no. Not only were we treated to some of Queenstown’s finest food and drink, we experienced first-hand the sustainability efforts Queenstown businesses are putting in play to make this popular destination as environmentally-friendly as possible. If you’re after a holiday that’s both action-packed and eco-friendly, read on for some ideas…

We kicked things off with a stay at mi-pad, a smart, sustainable hotel where your mobile phone acts as a digital concierge. All you have to do is download the app, mia to check in, access your room and quickly change the lighting and temperature. What I love about mi-pad is how effectively they utilize space – everything is consciously designed and carefully considered. Our room was perfectly compact; it had everything we needed and nothing we didn’t. Oh, and the view was spectacular. I’ve wanted to stay at mi-pad ever since it opened earlier this year. I like the growing trend of smaller hotels with shared spaces and the focus on only using what you need.

After a quick power nap (and some Netflix because you can Chromecast your phone to the TV, another neat feature!) I strolled into Moochi, which had conveniently opened that day. Afterwards, I ventured to Yonder for an intimate dinner with Southern PR and a lovely group of Queenstown content creators. I’d been to Yonder for breakfast last summer and loved the beautiful outdoor space and was impressed by the eclectic vegan and plant-based options. Yonder caters to all diets and everything is clearly marked, making it super easy to find dishes you’ll love. We sampled the new summer menu and it was ridiculously delicious! From fried cheese balls and fried chicken to fresh ceviche and lovely summer salads, everything was incredible. Their cocktail lineup is equally impressive. I loved the summer spritz, which is Yonder’s take on an Aperol spritz, but with rhubarb. Basically, I’ll be attempting to recreate it for the next few months. After dinner, we were treated to live music, which is a regular occurrence at Yonder Live.

The following day, Nick and I were up bright and early for a wine tour with Alpine Wine Tours. Queenstown’s surge in tourism means that more and more wine tours and companies have opened up this year. Alpine took us to a mix of boutique vineyards and well-known wineries. Central Otago is well known as one of the top three destinations for pinot noir alongside Burgundy, France and Oregon, USA. It’s also my preferred type of wine, so I was eager to try plenty of it on this tour. We stopped at Kinross for scrumptious platters and even sampled pinot noir chocolate (yum!) at Gibbston Valley. My personal favourite was Mt. Rosa, a boutique winery with amazing views and excellent wines. Both Nick and I loved the rosé and they also serve mulled wine and sangria, which is a refreshing change. I’ve been on plenty of wine tours, but I like the small size of our group and our tour guide, who was full of fun anecdotes and details about this beautiful wine region.

Just as we finished up at our last winery, the rain started to come down as we were due for dinner at Erik’s Fish and Chips, but that didn’t stop us. We met with the lovely owner, Anna who told us that Queenstown didn’t have a fish and chip shop three years ago when they opened. They’ve been hugely successful, especially on sunnier days, when customers can take their meals down to the beach. The menu is extensive and they do a tasty fish fry up, but probably most noteworthy is the deep fried kiwi fruit. It’s the perfect mix of sweet and sour and I can’t recommend it more. Another cool thing about Erik’s is that everything on the menu is gluten-free, but you’d never know. The team recently took home SME Business of the Year at the local business awards and have opened up shop in Wanaka. Definitely add this spot to your list when you’re next in QT.

Queenstown has experienced a population boom in recent years and traffic is becoming increasingly problematic with only one road in and out of the city. To help reduce congestion, Queenstown Ferries have refreshed their offering with Go Orange. Commuters and visitors can say goodbye to traffic jams, road rage and the hunt for an elusive car park. I really can’t think of a more scenic and sustainable way to get in and out of the town centre.

If you’re looking to get out and enjoy nature (of course you are, you’re in Queenstown), be sure to book yourself in for some ziplining adventures with Ziptrek. The Canadian company originally opened in Whistler before expanding to Queenstown. The views are unparalleled and the team is focused on educating visitors on local sustainability efforts. Each line begins with a quick lesson on how we can reduce our environmental impact. We did the Kea Tour, which includes six ziplines, finishing with a ride that descends 30 storeys at speeds of up to 70kph! It’s definitely a unique way to get down the mountain.

I was pleased to arrive in time for the opening of SLOW. A concept store on Beach Street, SLOW embraces and is named after the movement that encourages us to slow down our consumption habits. Rather than succumbing to fast fashion, SLOW is all about buying less but better. Exclusively stocking plenty of Scandinavian, American and Canadian brands, I was taken by the gorgeous homewares, well-made clothing and coffee table books in the light-filled shop. There’s also a FRAMA coffee machine with a cabinet of vegan and wholefoods. It’s definitely worth visiting when you’re next in Queenstown.

Some other businesses I’d suggest visiting:

Vudu Café and Larder: For a classic breakfast, I can’t go past Vudu. Grab a seat at one of the communal tables overlooking the lake and tuck into eggs and hash. And their coconut milk flat white is bliss!

Bespoke Kitchen With a focus on healthy breakfasts and plant-based treats, I make a point of stopping into Bespoke whenever I’m in Queenstown. The coffee’s excellent and the smoothie bowl is divine. Bespoke is right near the base of the gondola, so if you’re planning on a trip to the highest point in QT, stop here before or after for a bite.

Amisfield Winery Nick and I stopped here for lunch and a tasting a few years ago and I’ve been wanting to return ever since. They’ve released their 2018 rosé and I’m so eager to try it. Definitely book in advance as it can get busy!

Sherwood Queenstown I’ve stayed here previously and can’t recommend it enough. The Sherwood reminds me of the Canadian Rockies in the best way possible. It has a decidedly ski-lodge feel to it, with beautiful amenities, an incredible in-house restaurant and yoga studio. The outdoor eating area feels like a cosy campfire hangout. You honestly won’t want (or need) to ever leave.

Miss Lucy’s Located on the rooftop of Jucy Snooze, Miss Lucy’s is a beautifully designed space with epic views. Nick and I enjoyed watching the Queenstown Marathon finish line as we sipped on their new cocktail menu (their Aperol Spritz is killer) and delicious pizzas. The branding here is on point with impeccable attention to design detail, making it super ‘gram worthy.

Have you been to Queenstown before? If so, where are your must-visit spots?

November 19, 2018