prairie girl musings

Category: City Guide

9 Must-Vist Vancouver Cafés

If you’ve ever been to Vancouver, you’ll know it’s one of the most picturesque cities in the world. For a coastal city with such an active and outdoorsy reputation, many people are surprised to learn that its food scene is equally impressive. Even prior to moving here, I spent many visits exploring the diverse culinary scene and find myself regularly discovering new spots.

Today, I want to highlight the coffee spots currently on my radar. We were absolutely spoiled by New Zealand’s café culture, so I was a little worried about acclimatizing to Canadian coffee, but it’s not all Tim Hortons. There are some incredible people doing incredible things with coffee (and pastries) right here in Vancouver. These are a few spots worth checking out, but it’s by no means an exhaustive list:

Their There:
This Kitsilano spot tops many lists as a favourite café in Vancouver. Not only is the coffee excellent, the food is ridiculously good. If you’re there for breakfast, be sure to get one of their breakfast sammies (brioche bun, folded scrambled egg, hundy sauce, sprouts and bacon, sausage or a veggie option). Served with a side of tater tots and kewpie mayo. Their mochi doughnuts are unreal with the most delicious squishy texture. Their There has managed to adapt to the ever-changing restrictions and there’s usually a line out the door.

Nemesis Coffee:
I first discovered Nemesis a few years back when visiting Vancouver with my sister and two local friends. We ventured to the Gastown location for kombucha (it was later in the day and I was already quite caffeinated) but I remember eyeing up the stunning interior and cabinets filled with pimped out croissants and cruffins. I vowed to return to try the coffee (verdict: it’s superb) and a treat. Having been back several times since, you’ll understand why I was thrilled to hear of their upcoming THIRD location on Great Northern Way, not far from my apartment. You can count on me to be there sipping their pour over every other day. Oh, and it’s an awesome spot to pick up beans if you like to make coffee at home.

Marché Mon Pitou:
Relatively new on the scene, Mon Pitou is arguably Vancouver’s most beautiful café. It feels like a slice of Paris in South Granville. The flat white here is made exactly how I like it; strong but not bitter. (I like to taste my coffee, ya know?) The vibes are immaculate, the food and baked goods are perfect and the service is always friendly. If you’re looking for a nice brunch spot with great coffee, look no further.

Timbertrain:
It seems like a lot of “best of” lists forget about Timbertrain and I’m not sure why. Another favourite of mine, it is an essential Gastown spot with the BEST almond croissants and cortados in the city. Order a cortado or an iced latte to start your day

Elysian Coffee Roasters:
Elysian has multiple locations scattered throughout the downtown core, but my local is on the leafy intersection of 7th and Ontario in Mount Pleasant. I first visited this spot with my sister and her partner after they claimed it to have the best filter coffee in Vancouver. I usually order a filter and a croissant when I visit and can’t wait for the day that I can once again sit in and people watch.

Matchstick Coffee Roasters:
Again, Matchstick has a few locations throughout Vancouver, but I frequent the Fraser Street one because it’s only a short walk from my house. Nick and I both really enjoy Matchstick beans and it’s typically our go-to whenever we realize our supply is low. Their pain au chocolat has to be the best I’ve had so far in Vancouver and their chocolate chip cookie is equally divine. The best part is that when you buy espresso beans, your coffee is discounted, so you can be doubly caffeinated.

Liberty Coffee:
You’ll notice that most of the cafés I’ve recommended excel in the pastry department in addition to the caffeine department and Liberty is no exception. Located on Main Street, this spot is always teeming with regulars ordering warm beverages and fresh baked goods. Their cardamon buns are well worth a try and the interior reminds me of the cafés I visited in Stockholm and Copenhagen.

Small Victory:
Whenever I walk past Small Victory in Yaletown, I can’t resist stopping in. Here you’ll find some of the best pastries in the city plus an all-day menu and thoughtfully prepared coffee in an open loft-like space.

Revolver:
No Vancouver coffee crawl is complete without a visit to Revolver. It was the first Vancouver coffee shop on my radar because it’s Australian-owned and has been for as long as I can remember (well, 2011). Its name refers to the revolving selection of roasters including Bows & Arrows, Proud Mary and Luna. It’s a go-to of mine for stocking up on espresso for this very reason, but I haven’t ordered a coffee from him for awhile, but they do have an alleyway set-up currently, so you can easily grab and go.

What are your favourite coffee shops in Vancouver? I’d love to know which ones I need to visit.

April 4, 2021
Dunedin City Guide

Located on the east coast of New Zealand’s South Island, Ōtepoti Dunedin has a rich heritage and is known for its interesting inhabitants. My first time properly exploring Dunedin was during iD Fashion Week in 2016, not long after I moved to Christchurch. The experience left a lasting impression, and Dunedin has been one of my favourite New Zealand cities ever since. It’s filled with creative, friendly souls who go out of their way to have a chat and share stories about their community.

With domestic travel back on the cards, Nancy suggested taking a trip to Dunedin. Nancy is an incredibly talented photographer and I knew we had to document our experience in a way that would be helpful for Kiwis travelling their backyard. Thankfully, we had the help of the team at Dunedin NZ to put together an action-packed itinerary and we discovered our fair share of incredible establishments.

If you’re someone who enjoys wandering around cities, stumbling into art galleries and lingering in cafés, you will absolutely love Dunedin. Its compact size makes it walkable and manageable whether you have a day or a week to explore. Here’s what we did during our three days in Dunners:

STAY
We based ourselves at The Terminus Apartments, just off Vogel Street in the Warehouse Precinct. Our two-bedroom apartment reminded us of a New York loft with its exposed brick walls and high ceilings. We spent every evening taking in the stunning sunsets over the city. The spacious unit had a stylish lounge, a full-service kitchen, even a workspace, and honestly, we didn’t want to leave.

SIGHTSEEING
Stargazing with Horizon Tours was an otherworldly experience and a highlight of our time in Dunedin. The Otago peninsula coastline yields breathtaking views of the night sky and we were lucky to have the clearest night for our tour of the southern skies.

After being greeted by our charming guides, Kylie and Lyndon, they each pointed out celestial points of significance (most of which can be viewed with the naked eye!) Kylie sang a waiata and shared stories about Māori myths of creation, of how Te Ao Marama – the world of light emerged. Hearing the stories of Māori ancestral heritage added to the magic of the tour; it truly is a point of difference. The four-hour excursion includes a light supper, a hot beverage, (I loved my detoxifying Kawakawa tea) plenty of blankets and the comfiest chairs (with headrests!) for optimal stargazing.

As a coastal city, Dunedin has beaches scattered along its coastline and around the Otago Harbour. If you’re visiting during the summer months, the beaches are a must. It was sunny, but quite chilly during our stay, but we stopped by St. Kilda on our way to Larnach Castle.

After our visit to the seaside, we carried on to Larnach Castle where we were greeted by owner and CEO, Norcombe Barker. Having grown up in the castle, Norcombe shared its fascinating history as well as his experience renovating the castle with his parents. When they purchased it in 1967, it was in a state of near ruin and the ballroom was being used to pen sheep!

After wandering around the enormous, 25-room castle and the gardens, we were treated to high tea beside the fire in the historic ballroom (and former sheep pen). The space often plays host to various events and celebrations — from weddings to galas and the annual winter ball. We didn’t ask Norcombe about any specific ghost sightings, but he did tell us about one particular incident in 1994 when Castle of Lies, a play on the Larnach family, premiered in the grand ballroom.

We also stopped by one of city’s most prominent landmarks, The Dunedin Railway Station. Dating back to 1906, this magnificent building is often referred to as the Gingerbread House. Not only does the railway station play host to iD Fashion Week (the longest and most incredible runway in the world!) it’s also home to the Otago Farmers Market every Saturday.

EAT & DRINK

Precinct Food
If you’re looking for a twist on the usual breakfast fare, be sure to stop into Precinct Food on Vogel Street. Owner and director, Liz Christensen retrained as a chef eight years ago and cleverly uses food to tell stories. After buying a catering company, she used the space for creative events and it reluctantly became a café soon after. You’ll find a few classic favourites on the menu, like eggs benny and the big breakfast, but there are plenty of dishes that push the boundaries including their carrot and tofu dumplings.

Good Good
According to my friend, Jared, Good Good has the best burgers in New Zealand. I trust Jared with burger recommendations and he’s never failed me. As soon as we stopped in for lunch, I knew we were in for a treat. The space is a converted garage with pink neon signs and casual seating. Even though the kitchen is small (it’s housed in a small caravan onsite), the burgers that emerge are incredible. We shared the buttermilk fried chicken burger (Nancy’s favourite) and the beef burger (my favourite) with parmesan tater tots. As many of my readers will know, I’m a bit of a burger fiend, and these did not disappoint.

Side On
In search of freshly baked goods, we headed straight to Side On on Moray Place on our last morning in Dunedin. After taking one look through their window, we knew we needed to sit down for breakfast, too. Their breakfast offering is small, I think most dishes feature freshly baked bread in some form with various toppings. Nevertheless, it was satisfying and I left with a cardamon bun and a few slices to snack on later.

The Swan
Tucked away on Bath Street, The Swan officially opened in January this year and quickly became a local favourite. You’ll immediately notice the gorgeous shopfront adorned with a swan, which happened to be retrieved from a pond in Balclutha. Open from 8am until 4pm during the week (Monday to Thursday), The Swan stays open late on Friday and Saturday nights and there’s live music on Saturdays. The food here is noteworthy with chef Mikhail making everything in-house from scratch. We ordered the impressive platter, which consisted of salmon, (they smoke it themselves) a whole loaf of freshly baked ciabatta, beetroot, pesto, pickled onions (again they do all their own pickling) and three types of cheese from local suppliers. Paired with a pinot noir from Central Otago, it was a memorable way to spend our afternoon.

Heritage Coffee
Vogel Street is home to so many excellent cafés, bakeshops, and eateries, but we were immediately drawn into Heritage Coffee with its moody interior. It proved to be the perfect spot for a coffee in between meetings. Heritage serves coffee made with beans by small batch local roaster, Common Ground and classic breakfast staples like avocado toast and eggs benny. If you’re after a place to meet a friend or client, it’s a solid option in the Warehouse Precinct.

Catalyst Kitchen
A new spot near the Octagon, we had coffee at Catalyst Kitchen on our first full day in Dunedin. From what I’ve heard, the food offering is equally delicious with plenty of healthy lunchtime options.

There were a few spots we didn’t have the chance to make it to this time around, but I also recommend Allpress Roastery, which is worth a visit for its beautiful building alone. Grab a coffee or some beans on your way to the university or the Otago Museum. No7 Balmac is another favourite of mine for either brunch or dinner, located up Maori Hill.

Ocho Chocolate Factory
A trip to Dunedin isn’t complete without stopping by Ocho, Otago’s own craft chocolate shop and tasting room. I initially discovered Ocho at the Otago Farmers Market (held on Saturdays at the Railway Station — highly recommend!) In addition to factory tours, they offer chocolate tastings where you can learn about what’s involved in making chocolate. During the 25 minute tastings, you’ll see the team roast, grind, temper and wrap chocolate by hand and then taste the difference between cacao from Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and Fiji.

Bay Rd
Next door to Ocho, you’ll find Bay Rd, which is home to Dunedin’s best peanut butter. The Hastie Brothers batch roast the peanuts before chucking them straight in the grinder, the result is some of the freshest peanut butter imaginable. Their café is temporarily closed, but stop by for a fresh jar and a chat. I’m team crunchy, but I’ve heard their smooth PB is equally delicious.

And just like that, our trip to Dunedin was done and dusted. Nancy and I had the best time together and realised that despite regularly visiting this city, there was even more to discover. While international travel might not be an option for awhile, we’re spoiled for choice right here in New Zealand. Whether you travel to Dunedin frequently or you haven’t been in years, head down for a weekend and you might be surprised to find a world class city here at home.

Photography by Nancy Zhou

*This trip was a press trip with Dunedin NZ

June 14, 2020
PGM’s Guide To Paris

Ah, Paris. Where do I even begin?

I wasn’t even considering Paris for our studymoon when Nick suggested a trip to the City of Light. But as soon as the words left his mouth, I was eagerly researching hotels and booking our train tickets from Amsterdam. Paris has a way of doing that to people. It draws you in and makes you never want to leave.

The last time I was in Paris was in 2014 with my friend, Annie. We ate croissants and baguettes for breakfast every day and hit up all the iconic tourist spots: Versailles, Pompidou, Ladurée, you name it.

Nick hates queueing and although it was his first time in Europe, he wasn’t interested in main touristy spots (don’t worry, we still saw the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Cœur…) so we got a real sense of Paris. From having our morning cortados at tiny cafés to cycling along the Seine in electric Jump bikes and weaving through little laneways in Le Marais, we fell hard for Paris and I finally feel equipped to write a proper city guide with local recommendations, so let’s dive in.

Where to stay:

If I had to choose one hotel ‘chain’ for the rest of my life, it’d be The Hoxton. The only way I can think to describe The Hoxton Paris is understated and chic. Located in the 2nd arrondisement, surrounded by shops and restaurants, this 18th-century rowhouse is centrally located (right beside the Bonne Nouvelle metro station) and a handful of shops and cafés.

Where to shop:

L’Apartement Sézane: if you go anywhere in Paris, make sure you stop by Sézane (conveniently next-door to The Hoxton). It’s my favourite place to shop and people watch in Paris.

Merci: a general store of sorts, Merci is equal parts café, bookstore, interior shop and clothing store. Look for the red Mini in the alleyway and you’ve found the spot. I could easily spend hours combing through the shelves.

Shakespeare & Company: A bookstore like no other, Shakespeare & Company was home to the Lost Generation in the 1920s and the Beatnik generation in the 1950s. If you’re a literature lover, it needs to be on your bucket list. Pro tip: it’s swarming with tourists during the day, so opt to go for an evening event or reading if you can.

Favourite coffee shops:

Boot Café: a hole-in-the-wall, six-seater café in Le Marais, which was once a shoe shops and retains trappings of its former life. The faded Cordonnerie sign is an Instagrammer’s fave.

Dreamin’ Man: Known for their epic pastries, this is a local favourite and for good reason. Seats are super limited, but well worth the wait.

Café Kitsuné: If you’re hanging out in the former palace that’s now a public park (Paris is really cool like that) be sure to stop by Café Kitsuné for an iced latte and fox cookie.

Fragments: All day breakfast and good coffee at at leisurely pace, Fragments is worth writing home about.

Season: We regrettably didn’t make it to Season, but their matcha pancakes have been taunting me ever since.

Peonies: Truthfully, we didn’t like the coffee here (it was super weak) but the pink interior, baked goods and flowers are worth the visit alone.

Favourite restaurants:

Buvette: Open from morning until late, Buvette came highly recommended by quite a few friends and bloggers. The little neighbourhood joint is a South Pigalle favourite (located in the 9th arrondisement, but also very close to our hotel). It’s also a lovely spot for a quick snack in between sightseeing or shopping.

Pink Mamma: There’s a lot of hype surrounding Pink Mamma and as I mentioned, Nick isn’t about queueing up (especially for tourist traps), but I convinced him it’d be worth it and we both LOVED the meal we had here. We ordered way too much, but ended up devouring it all. It’s without a doubt, the best Italian food I’ve had outside Italy.

Holy Belly: Great coffee and a seasonal menu made with only the freshest ingredients, Holy Belly is popular and for good reason. If you’re craving a hearty breakfast, this should be your go-to.

Wild & the Moon: After a few too many croissants and pastries, it was time for some healthy eats at this gorgeous eatery.

We also had a delicious dinner at Rivié, the in-house restaurant at The Hoxton. It was pretty pricey for what it was though.

Lunch at Buvette

Dinner at Rivié at The Hoxton

What to do:

Well, there’s all the typical Paris spots: The Louvre, Sacré Cœur, wine and cheese beside the Eiffel Tower, Versailles, etc. I’m going to forgo delving into the typical recommendations in favour of a few spots that are still popular a bit less crowded (especially if you’re visiting during high season).

Musée D’Orsay is my favourite museum in Paris. It is home to a vast collection of Impressionist art and every room is worth exploring. You’ll find pieces by all the masters including Degas (my personal fave), Cézanne, Manet, Renoir, and Monet. It’s located on the Left Bank, housed in a Beaux Arts railway station.

Centre Pompidou: If you like modern art, you’ll want to add Pompidou to your Paris itinerary. The architecture was quite radical when it opened in 1977, all industrial pipes and glass, but it’s considered one of the best in the contemporary art world.

Palais-Royal: Also close to The Hoxton, this complex and former palace is the perfect place to while away a few hours with a coffee and a book. If you only have an afternoon in Paris, Palais-Royal is really Paris in a nutshell with shops, cafés, art, history, architecture, and spectacular gardens, all across the street from the Louvre.

Musée Rodin: Auguste Rodin’s former home opened as a public museum in 1919. See his drawings and sculptures up close inside then wander through the gardens to find his more famous works including “The Thinker.”

Shakespeare & Company

The Hoxton Lobby

The Hoxton is home to a few gorgeous common areas. Grab a coffee in the morning or sit outside in the sun with an afternoon cocktail.

If you’re a blogger looking for the best places to shoot in Paris, I suggest checking out Icing & Glitter’s guide to the most Instagrammable places in Paris here.

Of course, you’ll want to wander past L’Arc de Triomphe for that all-important photo op, enjoy a hot chocolate at Angelina and people watch while enjoying an Aperol Spritz at Le Barbouille in Le Marais.

Where are your favourite spots in Paris? Let me know in the comments below.

September 8, 2019
Where We Went In Amsterdam

I could, without any hesitation, pack up and move to Amsterdam. It’s the perfect city with its beautiful canals and row houses, delicious cuisine, and friendly, easy-going people. And don’t even get me started on the bike lanes! Everyone cycles here and it’s truly one of the most civilised places I’ve ever been. It’s a lot more touristy than when I visited five years ago, but I suppose that’s a testament to what a great city it is to visit and to live in.

We were in Amsterdam because Nick was doing a university course at VU Amsterdam. It’s an international university where all postgraduate courses are taught in English, attracting a huge number of travellers and expats. Nick’s course was two weeks long, so I stayed for a week and went travelling with a friend for the other week (more on that in another blog post!) We took the opportunity to settle in and properly explore this liveable, beautiful city. Our friend, Alice also visited from Berlin and the three of us had such a great time.

Recently, Amsterdam’s also become a hub for entrepreneurs and freelancers. From what I’ve heard, it’s relatively easy to get a freelancer’s visa, so who knows, maybe we’ll move here for awhile…

Where to stay:
Since Nick was studying, we secured accomodation at Hotel Jansen which caters to short-stay students. It’s located slightly south of the main tourist area near Vondelpark and the Olympic Stadium, which ended up being a blessing in disguise.

Other accommodation options:
The Hoxton: This canal side hotel on the Herengracht was once the mayor’s home! The Hoxton is known for its beautifully rooms and incredible in-house restaurants.

The Pulitzer: If we weren’t staying at the university accommodation, I would’ve certainly booked a night at Pulitzer. It’s the epitome of Dutch elegance and nearly 400 years old. We just missed Pride, but they had a massive pink deck set up for the festivities!

Where to eat:
In addition to being a hotbed for entrepreneurs, Amsterdam’s also received an influx of lifestyle bloggers and creatives who are flocking to the many photogenic cafés and restaurants scattered throughout the city. We managed to visit a handful of incredible eateries during our stay and I loved both the food and the interiors at all of the following:

The Avocado Show: If you like avocados, make sure you go to The Avocado Show in Amsterdam. Everything on the menu is made using this millennial superfruit and every dish is absolutely ‘grammable.

Little Collins: Alice and I ventured to De Pijp for the most scrumptious Aussie-style brunch (and coffee). We were both such big fans of Little Collins. It’s worth noting that they have two locations in the West and de Pijp neighbourhoods of Amsterdam.

Toki: Coffee in Europe can be hit or miss, but Toki was hands down our favourite café in Amsterdam. If we lived here, we’d probably go at least weekly. With its pretty terrazzo tables and minimalist interior (it’s a mash-up of Japanese and Scandinavian-design), it’s right up my alley. Keep in mind, coffee is the focus here, so best to come for a drink and a snack rather than brunch.

Ree7: This cute little spot is a lovely place for breakfast. If you can, grab a table outside for people watching. We ordered the red velvet pancakes and avocado toast, both were delicious.

Winkel 43: The Dutch love their apple pie and Winkel is the most popular spot (and rightly so) to indulge.

Polaberry: Speaking of treats, if you have a major sweet tooth, you’ll want to hit up this Instagram hotspot (it’s owned by influencer Polina or Polabur) for chocolate-covered strawberries and beautiful cake pops.

Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx: Dutch fries are also an absolute must. There are plenty of great options, but we loved the ones at Vlaams. There’s usually a queue, but it moves quickly.

Mama Kelly: This pink palace was high on my list of places to visit and fortunately, super close to where we were staying. They’re known for their chicken and lobster, but also have some delicious vegetarian options. We ventured here for lunch on our last full day in Amsterdam and it lived up to the hype.

Foodhallen: With a handful of eateries and bars under one roof, Foodhallen is a great place to try a wide variety of concepts and cuisines. There’s even a gin bar…

Pluk Amsterdam: Part shop, part café, Pluk was my go-to for smoothie bowls and healthy breakfast options. It’s great if you’re looking for something light after having a few too many fries, stroopwafels and pancakes. It’s on the prettiest street as well, so make sure to hang around for window shopping.

Cannibale Royale: This dimly restaurant came highly recommended by quite a few people and it didn’t disappoint. I had the vegetarian burger and it was one of the best I’ve ever tried and the sides were equally tasty.

What to do:
A city steeped in history, there’s so much to explore in Amsterdam and I always find I run out of time to do everything I want to.

First things first, hire a bike. It’s the best way to get around and even if you’re not an avid cyclist, you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Just remember to always look both ways and don’t cut anyone off. Pretty much everyone commutes to work, so stick to the right so people can pass. I suggest going with Black Bikes (they have 14 locations) or Adamfiets. I rented bikes from both while I was there.

You’ll definitely want to go to the Van Gogh Museum (I’ve been twice) and to see Anne Frank’s House (it books up MONTHS in advance, so don’t delay). Both will be busy, so try to go first thing in the morning on a weekday, if possible.

Another must-visit museum is Rijkmuseum, which is located next to the Van Gogh Museum and has the largest collection of Rembrandt paintings. We also visited the National Maritime Museum (as per Nick’s request) and both really enjoyed the space and learning about the naval history that goes back 500 years. There’s also a 50-minute tour of the old ship where you can experience life aboard and have a look inside the captain’s cabin, the galley and the crew quarters. It’s a great tour for families.

On a sunny day, you’ll want to pack a picnic and spend a few hours in Vondelpark. The public park is always teeming with people of all ages. If you have time, definitely catch the FREE ferry from Amsterdam Centraal to Amsterdam Noord. A friend recommended we check out Pllek in NDSM and it was honestly the coolest bar ever. Very similar to Smash Palace, but bigger and right on the water. Amsterdam Noord also has serious Berlin vibes. Another awesome waterfront bar is Hannekes Boom, which we visited with another Christchurch friend the following day.

I hope you enjoyed reading my Amsterdam guide. If you want to see more of my recommendations, follow me on Instagram here.

Have you ever been to Amsterdam? If so, what did you think?

July 28, 2019
The Perfect Winter Coat

We all know that winter can take a toll on our bodies. Thankfully, winters in Christchurch are typically crisp yet sunny and it’s easy to get by with clever layering, a thick pair of socks and a quality winter coat.

Having dealt with -30 degree weather back in Saskatchewan, I don’t find Christchurch winters unbearable (except for the lack of proper insulation in homes, but that’s another story…) Dressing stylishly and warmly is attainable with minimal effort, especially with our access to beautiful and sustainably made garments like this Kowtow coat. In fact, I’ve been living in this coat since I purchased it a few weeks ago. It’s basically a blanket that wraps so wonderfully around thick layers and keeps me warm whether I’m walking to the office or cycling to Smash Palace for after work drinks.

Speaking of winter, I’m heading to Queenstown this weekend to sample some new winter menus and explore the city. I’ve been to QT quite regularly, but never in the wintertime and I’m told it is at its most magical this time of year. So, if you have any suggestions on what to do, please send them my way.

On a completely unrelated note, Urban List New Zealand has officially launched and I’ve written several articles on my favourite South Island cities — Nelson, Christchurch, Queenstown and Dunedin. I’d love it if you’d check out a few of my pieces and let me know what you think!

Photos by Malia Rose Photography

June 6, 2019
Christchurch City Guide — 2019 Edition

Many of our overseas family and friends are visiting New Zealand (and Christchurch) for the very first time in March, while others are returning to a city that has changed considerably since they last visited. Since receiving a handful of messages and emails about what to do in Christchurch from a couple days to a week, I figured it’s about time to update my Christchurch city guide.

Below you’ll find all my recommendations on where to eat and drink, which sights to take in as well as my must-visit beaches and favourite walks. Christchurch is having a moment, so if you haven’t been in awhile, I urge you to come for a visit.

Many of my suggestions fall within close proximity to the central city (as that’s where we live and where I think you should focus a lot of your time) as well as a few key areas I think are worth visiting if you have a vehicle.

Getting acquainted with the city//

With plenty of new cycleways, Christchurch is one of the best cities for cycling in the Southern Hemisphere. The city itself is flat and relatively compact, so it’s best explored by bike. Hire the coolest wheels in town from Action Bicycle Club on Walker Street and you’ll be ready to go.

If you’re wanting to try something a bit different, hire a Lime scooter for a trip or two. I wouldn’t recommend spending your entire weekend on Lime because that’s akin to taking Uber everywhere (it adds up quickly!) but they’re so much fun to use every now and again.

Where to stay//

The Crowne Plaza
If you’re looking to stay in the heart of the city, there’s no better place to be than the Crowne Plaza. Perfectly located just a stone’s throw from New Regent Street (the prettiest street in Christchurch), Victoria Park, the Botanic Gardens and Oxford Terrace, you’ll be able to get everywhere by foot.

There are plenty of Airbnbs scattered throughout the central city as well as in neighbouring suburbs like St. Albans and Sydenham.

What to do//

Spend a few hours at Tūranga Library
Your trip to Christchurch isn’t complete until you visit the brand new (and flashy) library. Peruse each of the four floors, experience virtual reality and spend some time interacting with the seven-metre touch screen Discovery Wall. Believe me, it’s worth checking out.

Explore the Botanic Gardens
There’s nothing better than an afternoon spent wandering through the tranquil botanic gardens. The idyllic spot makes it clear why Christchurch is referred to as the garden city. From the rose gardens to the various conservatories, it’s easy to spend hours meandering through the grounds. Don’t miss Garrick House, home to the most extensive collection of cacti and succulents in New Zealand. Ilex Cafe is the perfect lunch spot with a new incredible menu. Sit outside or grab a seat inside the bright, light-filled space.

Photo by Bayley Corfield

Visit the Christchurch Art Gallery
An iconic destination for both residents and visitors, Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetu is the city’s treasury of art, history, images, memories and ideas. Located on Worcester Boulevard, in the central city, combine your visit with a trip to the Arts Centre, the Museum, botanic gardens or for a coffee in the many nearby cafes.

Shop local at the Arts Centre
This newly restored heritage building is the centre of all things creative and cultural in the city. The Gothic Revival style building dates all the way back to 1877 and is now home to a myriad of cafes, boutique shops, art galleries and markets. Grab a coffee at Bunsen, formerly a chemistry classroom before checking out Pepa, a beautiful stationery shop. Next head upstairs to visit Frances Nation, a store dedicated to beautiful and durable wares from New Zealand makers and Indigo & Provisions for a carefully curated selection of fashion and homewares. Don’t leave before stopping at Rollickin’, the city’s best gelato shop.

Go see a show at Isaac Theatre Royal
The beautifully restored theatre has played an important part in the cultural and creative history of Christchurch since 1863. There’s always something on, from performances by Lorde to the Royal New Zealand Ballet, so be sure to check out the website for dates. It also doubles as the venue for the New Zealand International Film Festival, is a space for fringe theatre performances, talks, weddings, workshops and stand-up comedy. There’s always something on, so

Spend a sunny afternoon in Sumner
Sumner is a beautiful coastal suburb with some of the best surf breaks in the region. It’s a great place to go for a swim (or venture a bit further to Taylors Mistake, which is slightly more sheltered…) After your swim, be sure to grab an ice cream or sorbet from Utopia Ice. With flavours like Vietnamese coffee, matcha coconut and plum and earl grey, you’re sure to find something you like.

By the way, there are cycleways almost all the way to Sumner. If that feels a bit too far, there’s also a direct bus route from the Bus Interchange, which you’ll definitely want to check out whether you’re bussing or not.

Where to eat//

Miro
The restored Midland Building is, in my humble opinion, the most beautiful building in all of Christchurch. Home to communications agency, Brown Bread, suiting specialists, Crane Brothers and all-day café and restaurant, Miro, it’s a must-visit. Miro’s menu is extensive, they serve everything from colourful smoothie bowls to the more indulgent eggs benny on hash, plus Allpress cofffee to wash it down.

Here’s a closer look at Miro.

Black Estate
I’m already breaking my own rules here, but if your guests have a few days at their disposal, I’d highly recommend a day trip to North Canterbury’s best kept secret. Waipara is relatively new wine region, but is producing some of the country’s best wines. Black Estate is my favourite spot for lunch or dinner alongside a few glasses of rosé (their Treble Rosé is unbelievably good!) We made a trip here with my parents last January and had such a great time. If you’re heading to Waipara, I suggest booking accommodation here.

Twenty Seven Steps
A mainstay on every best restaurant list, Twenty Seven Steps is situated upstairs on picturesque New Regent Street. The heritage space is popular and for good reason, serving hearty, flavoursome meals made from locally-sourced and seasonal ingredients. Their wine list is mostly local and their cocktails are some of the best in the city. In 2017, they were named as one of the top 100 restaurants in the country.

Earl
New on the scene, Earl is making waves as a laidback all-day eatery in the central city. The casual but trendy Italian restaurant truly captures the essence of post-quake Christchurch hospitality. Here you’ll find satisfying Italian dishes paired with a selection of wines and cocktails. Be sure to try their Aperol Spritz, it’s one of the best in the city. Earl’s has a simple menu that’s incredibly tasty; a place you’ll return to again and again.

If you’re after some quick and easy lunch spots in the CBD, these are my top picks.

Where to drink//

Smash Palace
We’ve decided to have a post-wedding brunch at our favourite local watering hole for all our out-of-town guests. One of the most creative and unconventional bars I’ve ever visited, I’m so glad it’s our local. The vibes here are always 100% amazing and the food menu is excellent.

Gin Gin
I have been seriously limiting my drinking in the lead-up to our wedding, but could not resist visiting Gin Gin for a botanical chalice. With a gin cocktail list a mile long, this Victoria Street cocktail bar also has negronis on tap — I’m sold.

OGB
Located in the most stunning heritage building right in the heart of the city, OGB is a must! Not only are their cocktails amazing (as well as their wines) their menu is also super tasty. Their burger is one of the best in Christchurch.

Pomeroy’s
If you’re a craft beer drinker and love burgers, be sure to add Pomeroy’s to your itinerary. It’s one of the original breweries in Christchurch and their picnic tables are the best place to catch up with friends.

The Terrace
I’d be remiss not to mention the Terrace, which is home to a row of brand new bars and eateries. While somewhat touristy, it’s worth a visit for the beautiful landscaping overlooking the Avon. My top pick is Amazonita, which has a very expensive fit-out (basically the opposite of Smash Palace) and has been mentioned in countless national publications, so you know it’s good.

Best coffee shops & bakeries//
I have chosen a handful of cafés within walking distance to the central city and our wedding venue, but there are plenty of others worth visiting as well including Hello Sunday and Lyttelton Coffee Co.

If you’d like a deeper dive into some of my go-to cafés, have a look at the 10 Christchurch Cafés Worth Checking Out.

Kadett
My forever favourite, Kadett is dangerously close to my house. It’s a serene, light-filled space on the east side of St. Asaph Street. It’s the café of choice for freelancers and creative types. Try their kimchi toasties or one of their vibrant salads. Oh and they’ve got the best matcha lattes in town. Top it off with a Cakes by Anna slice and you’ll never want to leave.

Park Ranger
Given that our ceremony and reception are taking place at Riccarton House, I couldn’t resist mentioning Park Ranger, which is just around the corner. It’s a great spot for a pre-wedding coffee and snack (I have a thing for their espresso over ice with a dash of milk…) The leafy space offers respite from the busy suburb and serves up both indulgent and wholesome breakfast options.

Little Poms
A true Christchurch institution, Little Poms is a stylishly cosy spot for brunch. Serving up all your favourite brunch staples with a seasonal twist, it’s the kind of place you’ll want to return to again and again. Sharing a building with their older brother, Pomeroy’s, you’ll also find a selection of craft beer and wine available. If you like your brunch with cocktails, their mimosas and bloody marys are both worth trying!

Uncommon
If you’re looking for one of the best menus in the city, you can’t go wrong with Uncommon Café on Tuam Street. With coffee by C4 and dishes that are always changing, we’re suckers for their ‘gram worthy hotcakes and decadent French toast. Their breakfast boards are perfect for those s who can never make up their minds. They also have plenty of excellent savoury options including our favourite, For the Dads. Centrally located, Uncommon’s a popular weekday and weekend spot.

Grizzly
A fixture at the Christchurch Farmers Market, Grizzly Baked Goods have set up permanent digs in Sydenham. Along with the best bagels in town (I’m Canadian, so I’ve done my research…) you’ll want to stock up on their freshly baked bread (the rye and sourdough are my favourites) as well as their morning buns and filled doughnuts.

Best walks//

I’m not going to write too much about these walks because you can easily Google them, but I’ll quickly list my favourites:

Crater Rim
On a fine day, this track provides stunning views of the harbour, peninsula, plains and alps.

Godley Head Coastal Walk
Follow the coastline from Taylors Mistake, this is an equally good running option.

Bridle Path
The first formed link between Christchurch and Lyttelton, this one’s an epic workout. Check out Civil & Naval once you’re in Lyttelton.

Bowenvale Valley: Sweeping views of the city to the alps and coastline!

Washpen Falls: A beautiful (and not too rigorous) walk complete with waterfalls.

I won’t get into day trips because this post is all about Christchurch, but if you want to read about my ultimate place to venture outside of Christchurch, head over here.

As always, if you have any questions or additions, please feel free to leave me a comment or send me a message on Instagram (@vanessaortynsky). I’ll be sure to get back to you.

Photo by Bayley Corfield

February 1, 2019
The Best of Queenstown

You might remember my Queenstown guide from a couple years ago when Nick and I visited over Canterbury Anniversary weekend. We try to get away on long weekends whenever possible, but this year we were determined to save money (for obvious reasons). Initially, we thought we’d do a day trip somewhere nearby, but when the team at Southern PR invited us on a handful of exciting adventures, we couldn’t say no. Not only were we treated to some of Queenstown’s finest food and drink, we experienced first-hand the sustainability efforts Queenstown businesses are putting in play to make this popular destination as environmentally-friendly as possible. If you’re after a holiday that’s both action-packed and eco-friendly, read on for some ideas…

We kicked things off with a stay at mi-pad, a smart, sustainable hotel where your mobile phone acts as a digital concierge. All you have to do is download the app, mia to check in, access your room and quickly change the lighting and temperature. What I love about mi-pad is how effectively they utilize space – everything is consciously designed and carefully considered. Our room was perfectly compact; it had everything we needed and nothing we didn’t. Oh, and the view was spectacular. I’ve wanted to stay at mi-pad ever since it opened earlier this year. I like the growing trend of smaller hotels with shared spaces and the focus on only using what you need.

After a quick power nap (and some Netflix because you can Chromecast your phone to the TV, another neat feature!) I strolled into Moochi, which had conveniently opened that day. Afterwards, I ventured to Yonder for an intimate dinner with Southern PR and a lovely group of Queenstown content creators. I’d been to Yonder for breakfast last summer and loved the beautiful outdoor space and was impressed by the eclectic vegan and plant-based options. Yonder caters to all diets and everything is clearly marked, making it super easy to find dishes you’ll love. We sampled the new summer menu and it was ridiculously delicious! From fried cheese balls and fried chicken to fresh ceviche and lovely summer salads, everything was incredible. Their cocktail lineup is equally impressive. I loved the summer spritz, which is Yonder’s take on an Aperol spritz, but with rhubarb. Basically, I’ll be attempting to recreate it for the next few months. After dinner, we were treated to live music, which is a regular occurrence at Yonder Live.

The following day, Nick and I were up bright and early for a wine tour with Alpine Wine Tours. Queenstown’s surge in tourism means that more and more wine tours and companies have opened up this year. Alpine took us to a mix of boutique vineyards and well-known wineries. Central Otago is well known as one of the top three destinations for pinot noir alongside Burgundy, France and Oregon, USA. It’s also my preferred type of wine, so I was eager to try plenty of it on this tour. We stopped at Kinross for scrumptious platters and even sampled pinot noir chocolate (yum!) at Gibbston Valley. My personal favourite was Mt. Rosa, a boutique winery with amazing views and excellent wines. Both Nick and I loved the rosé and they also serve mulled wine and sangria, which is a refreshing change. I’ve been on plenty of wine tours, but I like the small size of our group and our tour guide, who was full of fun anecdotes and details about this beautiful wine region.

Just as we finished up at our last winery, the rain started to come down as we were due for dinner at Erik’s Fish and Chips, but that didn’t stop us. We met with the lovely owner, Anna who told us that Queenstown didn’t have a fish and chip shop three years ago when they opened. They’ve been hugely successful, especially on sunnier days, when customers can take their meals down to the beach. The menu is extensive and they do a tasty fish fry up, but probably most noteworthy is the deep fried kiwi fruit. It’s the perfect mix of sweet and sour and I can’t recommend it more. Another cool thing about Erik’s is that everything on the menu is gluten-free, but you’d never know. The team recently took home SME Business of the Year at the local business awards and have opened up shop in Wanaka. Definitely add this spot to your list when you’re next in QT.

Queenstown has experienced a population boom in recent years and traffic is becoming increasingly problematic with only one road in and out of the city. To help reduce congestion, Queenstown Ferries have refreshed their offering with Go Orange. Commuters and visitors can say goodbye to traffic jams, road rage and the hunt for an elusive car park. I really can’t think of a more scenic and sustainable way to get in and out of the town centre.

If you’re looking to get out and enjoy nature (of course you are, you’re in Queenstown), be sure to book yourself in for some ziplining adventures with Ziptrek. The Canadian company originally opened in Whistler before expanding to Queenstown. The views are unparalleled and the team is focused on educating visitors on local sustainability efforts. Each line begins with a quick lesson on how we can reduce our environmental impact. We did the Kea Tour, which includes six ziplines, finishing with a ride that descends 30 storeys at speeds of up to 70kph! It’s definitely a unique way to get down the mountain.

I was pleased to arrive in time for the opening of SLOW. A concept store on Beach Street, SLOW embraces and is named after the movement that encourages us to slow down our consumption habits. Rather than succumbing to fast fashion, SLOW is all about buying less but better. Exclusively stocking plenty of Scandinavian, American and Canadian brands, I was taken by the gorgeous homewares, well-made clothing and coffee table books in the light-filled shop. There’s also a FRAMA coffee machine with a cabinet of vegan and wholefoods. It’s definitely worth visiting when you’re next in Queenstown.

Some other businesses I’d suggest visiting:

Vudu Café and Larder: For a classic breakfast, I can’t go past Vudu. Grab a seat at one of the communal tables overlooking the lake and tuck into eggs and hash. And their coconut milk flat white is bliss!

Bespoke Kitchen With a focus on healthy breakfasts and plant-based treats, I make a point of stopping into Bespoke whenever I’m in Queenstown. The coffee’s excellent and the smoothie bowl is divine. Bespoke is right near the base of the gondola, so if you’re planning on a trip to the highest point in QT, stop here before or after for a bite.

Amisfield Winery Nick and I stopped here for lunch and a tasting a few years ago and I’ve been wanting to return ever since. They’ve released their 2018 rosé and I’m so eager to try it. Definitely book in advance as it can get busy!

Sherwood Queenstown I’ve stayed here previously and can’t recommend it enough. The Sherwood reminds me of the Canadian Rockies in the best way possible. It has a decidedly ski-lodge feel to it, with beautiful amenities, an incredible in-house restaurant and yoga studio. The outdoor eating area feels like a cosy campfire hangout. You honestly won’t want (or need) to ever leave.

Miss Lucy’s Located on the rooftop of Jucy Snooze, Miss Lucy’s is a beautifully designed space with epic views. Nick and I enjoyed watching the Queenstown Marathon finish line as we sipped on their new cocktail menu (their Aperol Spritz is killer) and delicious pizzas. The branding here is on point with impeccable attention to design detail, making it super ‘gram worthy.

Have you been to Queenstown before? If so, where are your must-visit spots?

November 19, 2018
The Instagrammer’s Guide To London

No matter how many times I go to London, I find there’s always something new to discover. On my last trip, I stayed with some New Zealand friends and the time before that, a high school friend who was attending London School of Economics. This trip was a blogging trip and the first time that I opted for a hotel.

If you’ve never been to London before, you’ll immediately notice just how expensive everything is. Of course, you can find affordable options if you’re looking, but it’s not the place to go if you’re after a cheap getaway. That said, taking the underground is the best way to get around, it’s super efficient, convenient and surprisingly affordable. I spent just over 50 pounds on my Oyster Card for the week and that includes one trip to the airport via Gatwick Express. Oh, and all the galleries and museums are free, so you can save your money for accommodation and eating out.

I spent the week with my friend and fellow foodie, Isabelle and we prioritised visiting cafés and restaurants and creating content for the gram (and the blog). Although I’ve shared London recommendations in the past, this is the most current list for anyone visiting London within the next few years.

Art and Culture:

Somerset House is an arts centre in the heart of London. It offers a diverse public programme of contemporary arts and culture.

Tate is an institution that houses, in a network of four art museums, the United Kingdom’s national collection of British art, and international modern and contemporary art. If you haven’t been, be sure to add Tate Britain and Tate Modern to your sightseeing itinerary.

There’s so much to see, do and experience at Kew Gardens that it’s worth planning ahead. We dedicated our afternoon to exploring Palm House, Temperate House and The Hive, which is a temporary installation, but could have easily spent an entire day here.

Palm House: An iconic Victorian glasshouse, the rainforest climate inside supports a unique collection of tropical plants from some of the most threatened environments on Earth.

Temperate House: The largest Victorian glasshouse in the world is home to an internationally important collection of temperate zone plants, including some of the rarest and most threatened.

The Hive: A unique, multi-sensory experience designed to highlight the extraordinary life of bees. A feat of British engineering, it stands 17 metres tall, set in a wildflower meadow.

Cafés:

Ozone Coffee Roasters is hands-down my favourite place for a flat white. It’s owned by two New Plymouth sisters, so you know the coffee will be superb. You might recall I visited the New Zealand outpost when I was in Taranaki last year, so I made a point of visiting the UK branch. I suggest coming here for breakfast, especially if you’re craving a traditional Kiwi feed with poached eggs, sautéed spinach, halloumi, roasted tomatoes and hashbrowns!

AllPress is another New Zealand café and roastery. It’s actually my preferred espresso roast in New Zealand. We visited the Shoreditch location on Redchurch Street (my favourite street for eating and shopping in London!) and loved both the space and the coffee. Grab a seat on the bench and spend a few minutes (or hours) people watching.

Peggy Porschen Cakes is one of the most Instagrammed spots in London and it isn’t difficult to see why. The cupcake shop boasts a light pink exterior that’s decorated every season. We visited just before Halloween and loved the pastel pumpkins and ghosts.

We ventured to Élan Café on our second to last day in London. Initially, we anticipated a beautiful café without a substantial (or quality) food offering, but we were wrong! Not only were the Middle Eastern dishes inventive, they were filling, delicious and beautifully presented.

Restaurants

Duck and Waffle is a must-visit whenever you’re in London, but especially for the first-timer. Located on the 40th floor of the Heron Tower, the views are seriously incredible. Isabelle and I had a window seat with stunning views of the skyline (we were ridiculously close to the Gherkin and the Tower Bridge). Order the duck and waffle because it’s the namesake dish and mouthwateringly delicious!

Located on a trendy street of hotels, bars, and shops in Hackney, Genesis is a brand-new entirely plant-based (and all-pink) eatery. Not only is the interior super ‘grammable, the food is remarkable! I even returned the next day for a kale caesar and kombucha (because, balance!) Whether you’re vegan or not, I 100% recommend this spot! It was my top pick during our week in London.

There are so many great pizza joints in London, but Pizza East was our all-time favourite. Yes, the pizza’s good but OH MY GOODNESS, the macaroni and cheese is life-changing. It’s the ultimate comfort food for when the temperatures drop.

Isabelle recommended a gorgeous wee French bistro whilst we were in Soho. Not only is Le Café Bohème beautifully understated, there was live music when we visited and guests spilling onto the streets. I was reminded of my time in Paris as we indulged in shoestring fries and some greens (for balance, ya know?) The drink menu also looked excellent, so I’ll have to return for a negroni or two.

Located on the first floor of the Town Hall Hotel, the light-filled Corner Room is a place where neighbourhood folk and visitors can hang out any time of the day. The menu showcases bold flavours and seasonal dishes with a French flair.

Other favourites include Saint Aymes for beautiful freshly baked goods, Bubblewrapwaffle (Hello Kitty waffles, anyone?) and Biscuiteers for the most adorable iced biscuits I’ve ever seen. They certainly make beautiful souvenirs! Mister Fitz is an Australian ice cream shop (I actually visited when I was in Brisbane) with a seasonal pop-up in London’s Soho neighbourhood.

Shopping

Conservatory Archives is the most millennial of plant shops. Located in Hackney, this space is filled with plants of every variety. With the aim of bringing “more plants in our lives”, you’ll find a gorgeous assortment of plants hanging from every shelf and will undoubtedly be tempted to take something home with you.

I was in the market for a new medium-sized suitcase and was thrilled to discover one of AWAY‘s few brick and mortar shop in Soho. I opted for the pink case and I am officially obsessed.

Goodhood is Shoreditch’s lifestyle destination and a favourite local spot for a global and well-curated selection of both men’s and women’s clothing as well as homeware.

I fell for AIDA, an independent concept store in Shoreditch. Combining Scandinavian inspired men’s and women’s clothing, homeware and delicious, barista-made coffee, it’s no wonder this is a must-visit for locals and visitors.

Labour and Wait offers a wide range of timeless, functional products for daily life.

Stay

We were lucky to stay at two different hotels during our time in London. The first was Ace Hotel in Shoreditch, which we both agreed was in the perfect location. East London is my favourite part of the city, it’s artsy, creative, fashionable and gritty. Here, we were spoiled for choice in terms of where to eat, drink, shop and even workout! If you’re hoping to stay active, I can’t recommend 1Rebel enough!

A bit more off the beaten track, but still central was Artist Residence. One of four properties, this boutique hotel has an international reputation for its luxurious rooms and suites. We were invited to stay in the Grand Suite and it was divine.

Photos by both Isabelle Cheng and myself.

October 28, 2018
How To Win In Berlin

I always knew I’d eventually visit Berlin, it was only a matter of time. When my friend Alice moved here from Christchurch, I knew it was the perfect opportunity to see the city through a local lens. She’s now lived in the German capital for six months and has an incredible grasp on everything worth experiencing. I spent a week with her, taking in the city’s extensive and often troubling history, cycling from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, drinking the best coffee and eating the best falafel (there’s plenty of it!)

If it’s your first time in Berlin, I’d highly suggest kicking things off with a walking tour. These are typically free, although you’ll need to tip the guide at the end. I opted for the Sandeman Walking Tour, which was approximately 2.5 hours long and took us to most of the major historical landmarks. Our guide, Sam Noble was incredibly knowledgable, delving into WWI and WWII history and explaining everything thoroughly. Beginning at the Brandenburg Gate (which you absolutely must visit anyway), you’ll see the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin Opera House, Berlin Cathedral and several more sights. It’s an excellent starting point if you’re unsure where to dedicate your energy. If it’s your first time in Germany, they also offer concentration camp tours, which are a confronting yet essential part of any visit.

Once you’ve had your introductory tour, you’ll be all set to visit a few more sights. East Side Gallery is the largest open air gallery in the world (featuring 105 pieces of street art) and another way to take in the Berlin Wall. Take in some of the most famous pieces, like the Socialist Fraternal Kiss by Dmitri Wrubel and work by Thierry Noir, who was the original street art to grace the Wall. There are plenty of up and coming artists who get their start here as well. Despite being a popular tourist spot, you won’t encounter swarms of tourists and the stroll along the wall is quite pleasant.

Now that we’ve covered the absolute sightseeing essentials, I thought I’d break up my Berlin favourites into neighbourhoods since Berlin can feel a bit overwhelming otherwise. Alice took me all over town, from Kreuzberg to Friedrichshain, so let’s dive in.

Kreuzberg:
The creative, gritty and alternative area of Berlin, Kreuzberg is the centre of the city’s large Turkish-German community. The neighbourhood has gentrified over the past few years and is now a hub for creative types. When I asked friends where to go in Berlin, the majority led me to cafés, vintage shops and bars in Kreuzberg.

Hallesches Haus is a general store, lunchroom and event space with some of the best food I had in Berlin. It’s worth stopping here for coffee and breakfast.

Brammibal’s Donuts is a gorgeous vegan donut and coffee shop on the river. Not only are the donuts delicious, they’re vegan. Try a matcha with oat milk while you’re there. If you can time your visit with the Turkish markets, even better. There are two other locations in Berlin.

Voo Store: A concept store and meeting place for creative people. The carefully curated selection of womenswear and menswear is beautifully displayed. The in-house café, Companion Coffee is lovely, so bring your laptop (or a book) and stay awhile.

Turkish Markets: Kreuzberg is home to a big Turkish community. Every Tuesday and Friday the area comes to life as vendors set up shop along the canal for the city’s largest Turkish market, which stretches between Kreuzberg and Neukölln. Here you’ll find interesting street food, fruit and veggie stalls and tables stacked with fabrics. Cash is a must, and a sneaky haggle might work if you play your cards rights.

Görlitzer Park: Along with being a popular green space for Berliners, this park is notorious for selling canabis.

Mitte:
Mitte is the most central and diverse district in Berlin. It has stunning architecture and museums. You’ll be spoiled for choice on how to spend your time and money in this area.

Berliner Dom/Berlin Cathedral: Although it was heavily bombed during World War Two, this imposing cathedral has been beautifully restored to the architectural marvel it has always been, from the distinctive exterior to the exacting detail of the ceiling. Guided tours as well as audio guides are available and tell visitors fascinating anecdotes and facts as well as illuminating the many historical aspects of the cathedral.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: This striking space is composed of concrete blocks right in the centre of the city. Also known as the Holocaust Memorial, it resembles a cemetery and a visit here is sobering.

The Barn: One of the most well-known local cafés, brewing coffee in every third-wave variety.

Five Elephant: Another outstanding coffee shop, plus they have soft-serve (!) in a lovely, sparsely decorated space.

Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers: Tucked away on a laneway just off the main drag, Father Carpenter is a must for excellent breakfast and coffee in the cosiest environment. It’s a great stop off if you’re hitting up a few of Mitte’s shops.

Prenzlauer Berg:
Bonanza Coffee: One of the earlier specialty coffee shops in Berlin, Bonanza is beautiful and stark. The minimalist café is known for its quality pours and delicious baked goods by Albatross. It was my favourite coffee and pastry of the week.

Mauerpark: Come on Sunday for the thrift market and karaoke. Mauerpark is a must-visit during the warmer months.

Curry 36: I found it mildly amusing how the various currywurst shops scattered throughout Berlin were numbered. I’m told Curry 36 serves up the best in the city, though I’m no curry connoisseur.

Friedrichshain
Home to much more than the famous club, Berghain, Friedrichshain is an interesting and eclectic neighbourhood. If you’re that way inclined, RAW, is Berlin’s most well-known row of nightclubs. Even if you’re not, it’s worth visiting during the day as it’s also home to a series of cultural events. There’s also a slew of cool secondhand shops, restaurants, parks and cafés. I didn’t spend too much time here, but here are some of the spots we hit up.

Not only is Shakespeare & Sons an excellent bookshop, it’s also home to the best bagels in Berlin. Fine Bagels also have challah, rugelach and schmears. Delish!

If you’re after secondhand goods, Boxhagener Platz has one of the best Sunday markets in Berlin. The grassy square also has a Saturday food market, a playground and play pool for the kids. Platz is also home to a great burger spot, authentic Asian restaurants, ice cream and coffee shops.

Michelberger Hotel: My sister, Stephanie spent a month in Berlin last summer and recommended Michelberger as a place to stay, but also as a café and coworking space. One thing I love about Berlin is how prevalent coworking spaces are and just how many freelancers and creatives appear to be flocking to these hubs.

Well, there you have my list of short and snappy Berlin must dos. It’s a big city, full of neighbourhoods, so be sure to explore it for yourself and find your own favourite spots.

October 8, 2018
Let’s Go To Glasgow

Are you ready for another city guide? Let’s explore Glasgow, Scotland’s biggest and most boisterous city.

Historically a working class city, Glasgow’s population grew rapidly during the 19th century. As a result, there’s a mix of 19th century Victorian architecture, early 20th century ‘Glasgow Style’ Mackintosh-designed buildings in addition to modern edifices. This impressive combination makes the city a magnet for architecture aficionados.

While Edinburgh is quite touristy, I found Glasgow to be far less so. And Glaswegians are some of the friendliest, most hospitable people I’ve ever met. Travelling alone, I’d often spend my time getting caught up in conversations with shop and café owners throughout the day. Speaking of which, here are my top picks for restaurants, cafés, shops and sights in Glasgow:

Stay:
I checked into CitizenM, which is a modern chain of boutique hotels throughout Europe, North America and Asia. The Glasgow branch is centrally located and has all the amenities you could ever require. The 24-hour canteen is the perfect spot to get some work done alongside a handcrafted cocktail and a sandwich. The rooms are small, but the beds are big (and ridiculously comfy). I was impressed by the personal greeting on my TV, the stuffed toy (how cute!) and bath products.

Sightseeing:
As I mentioned above, Glasgow is home to some incredible architecture. I didn’t have the time to take it all in, but I loved what I saw. My favourite spot for design and architecture was The Lighthouse. The first public commission of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, The Lighthouse dates back to 1895. It’s now Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture, but has a history as the former home of The Glasgow Herald. The spiralling staircase has some of the best views of Glasgow.

Another gallery worth visiting is GoMA, the modern art museum located in the city’s Royal Exchange Square. The extensive gallery displays work by local and international artists, most of which addresses contemporary social issues.

The People’s Palace is set in the historic Glasgow Green (be sure to check out the gorgeous Winter Gardens). Home to a collection of objects, photographs, prints and film, the palace gives insight into how Glaswegians lived in years gone by.

Another highlight for me was walking to the top of Queen’s Park (unfortunately, it was pouring rain during my entire stay) for the best view of the city!

Eat:
Oh, where to begin with Glasgow’s restaurant and café scene… I had a long list of places I wanted to try and also received some recommendations, so there was a lot to cover in two days.

Potluck: Just trust me and order the seasonal hotcakes at this tiny café in Glasgow’s Southside. Piled high with different toppings (I had the plum, yum!) this dish is almost too pretty to eat. But definitely eat it, it’s the most scrumptious meal I ate in Glasgow and the coffee was also my favourite in Scotland (big call I know!)

Market Coffee: Surely you’ve seen Market, in all its pastel pink glory, gracing your Instagram feed? If not, let me fill you in. Opened by Glaswegian blogger, Kate Spiers (Kate La Vie) and her husband Jordan Spiers, Market can be found in the city’s Southside. Designed by Kate herself, the interior is carefully considered (and super ‘grammable, obviously). Not only that, the coffee’s excellent and there are plenty of delicious cakes and cookies on offer. Kate and Jordan were away when I visited, but I had some great chats with her brother, Matt. It’s the friendliest (and prettiest) place for a rose petal latte.

Café Strange Brew: This bustling café is home to some of the best coffee and breakfast in the city. I ordered the Turkish baked eggs and a cortado and they didn’t disappoint. I recommend grabbing a window seat for some serious people watching.

Ox and Finch: My top pick for dinner and drinks is Ox and Finch. The meat-focused restaurant serves inventive dishes alongside beautiful cocktails. That said, the vegetarian dishes are equally delicious. Need I say more?

Topolabamba: Quality Mexican fare in Scotland? You’d better believe it. Topolabamba has a range of delicious (and spicy) Mexican dishes and the best margaritas in town. I opted for the fish tacos (pictured below) and they were super tasty.

Shop:
Glasgow has plenty of high street shops and well-known UK retailers. That said, I personally prefer hitting up one-off boutiques and unique spaces that offer something a little bit different. My nails also needed some TLC while I was in Glasgow, so I booked an appointed at NAF Salon. The space itself is gorgeous, all pink and neon and my nails are still looking amazing two weeks later.

For a carefully curated selection of prints, books and non-tacky souvenirs, head to Stephen O’Neil Art in the Southside. I basically wanted to take everything home with me.

Another local shop that I popped into was Pampas, a charming independent boutique selling several covetable items. Located in the West End, the shop carries labels like Pinko and J Brand.

Have you ever been to Glasgow? Let me know what you got up to!

September 29, 2018