prairie girl musings

Tag: Scotland

Let’s Go To Glasgow

Are you ready for another city guide? Let’s explore Glasgow, Scotland’s biggest and most boisterous city.

Historically a working class city, Glasgow’s population grew rapidly during the 19th century. As a result, there’s a mix of 19th century Victorian architecture, early 20th century ‘Glasgow Style’ Mackintosh-designed buildings in addition to modern edifices. This impressive combination makes the city a magnet for architecture aficionados.

While Edinburgh is quite touristy, I found Glasgow to be far less so. And Glaswegians are some of the friendliest, most hospitable people I’ve ever met. Travelling alone, I’d often spend my time getting caught up in conversations with shop and café owners throughout the day. Speaking of which, here are my top picks for restaurants, cafés, shops and sights in Glasgow:

Stay:
I checked into CitizenM, which is a modern chain of boutique hotels throughout Europe, North America and Asia. The Glasgow branch is centrally located and has all the amenities you could ever require. The 24-hour canteen is the perfect spot to get some work done alongside a handcrafted cocktail and a sandwich. The rooms are small, but the beds are big (and ridiculously comfy). I was impressed by the personal greeting on my TV, the stuffed toy (how cute!) and bath products.

Sightseeing:
As I mentioned above, Glasgow is home to some incredible architecture. I didn’t have the time to take it all in, but I loved what I saw. My favourite spot for design and architecture was The Lighthouse. The first public commission of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, The Lighthouse dates back to 1895. It’s now Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture, but has a history as the former home of The Glasgow Herald. The spiralling staircase has some of the best views of Glasgow.

Another gallery worth visiting is GoMA, the modern art museum located in the city’s Royal Exchange Square. The extensive gallery displays work by local and international artists, most of which addresses contemporary social issues.

The People’s Palace is set in the historic Glasgow Green (be sure to check out the gorgeous Winter Gardens). Home to a collection of objects, photographs, prints and film, the palace gives insight into how Glaswegians lived in years gone by.

Another highlight for me was walking to the top of Queen’s Park (unfortunately, it was pouring rain during my entire stay) for the best view of the city!

Eat:
Oh, where to begin with Glasgow’s restaurant and café scene… I had a long list of places I wanted to try and also received some recommendations, so there was a lot to cover in two days.

Potluck: Just trust me and order the seasonal hotcakes at this tiny café in Glasgow’s Southside. Piled high with different toppings (I had the plum, yum!) this dish is almost too pretty to eat. But definitely eat it, it’s the most scrumptious meal I ate in Glasgow and the coffee was also my favourite in Scotland (big call I know!)

Market Coffee: Surely you’ve seen Market, in all its pastel pink glory, gracing your Instagram feed? If not, let me fill you in. Opened by Glaswegian blogger, Kate Spiers (Kate La Vie) and her husband Jordan Spiers, Market can be found in the city’s Southside. Designed by Kate herself, the interior is carefully considered (and super ‘grammable, obviously). Not only that, the coffee’s excellent and there are plenty of delicious cakes and cookies on offer. Kate and Jordan were away when I visited, but I had some great chats with her brother, Matt. It’s the friendliest (and prettiest) place for a rose petal latte.

Café Strange Brew: This bustling café is home to some of the best coffee and breakfast in the city. I ordered the Turkish baked eggs and a cortado and they didn’t disappoint. I recommend grabbing a window seat for some serious people watching.

Ox and Finch: My top pick for dinner and drinks is Ox and Finch. The meat-focused restaurant serves inventive dishes alongside beautiful cocktails. That said, the vegetarian dishes are equally delicious. Need I say more?

Topolabamba: Quality Mexican fare in Scotland? You’d better believe it. Topolabamba has a range of delicious (and spicy) Mexican dishes and the best margaritas in town. I opted for the fish tacos (pictured below) and they were super tasty.

Shop:
Glasgow has plenty of high street shops and well-known UK retailers. That said, I personally prefer hitting up one-off boutiques and unique spaces that offer something a little bit different. My nails also needed some TLC while I was in Glasgow, so I booked an appointed at NAF Salon. The space itself is gorgeous, all pink and neon and my nails are still looking amazing two weeks later.

For a carefully curated selection of prints, books and non-tacky souvenirs, head to Stephen O’Neil Art in the Southside. I basically wanted to take everything home with me.

Another local shop that I popped into was Pampas, a charming independent boutique selling several covetable items. Located in the West End, the shop carries labels like Pinko and J Brand.

Have you ever been to Glasgow? Let me know what you got up to!

September 29, 2018
Skye High: Exploring the Highlands with Haggis

The Scottish Highlands have been high on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. When the opportunity to visit the Isle of Skye arose, I couldn’t believe my luck. Following a few days in Edinburgh (see my city guide here) I was set to embark on a three-day excursion with Haggis Tours.

To be completely honest, I’m not usually a tour kinda gal. When I travel, I’m armed with a laundry list of sights, shops and restaurants I want to visit. That said, the best (and only) way I was going to make it to the Highlands was on a tour. And you know what? I’m so glad I decided to book in with Haggis. The experience was enriching in every way imaginable. It was informative and entertaining, and I left with a handful of new friends from all corners of the globe.

We began our adventure in Edinburgh, on the Royal Mile before setting off for the Highlands. Our first stop was the Wallace Monument in Stirling (if you’ve seen Braveheart, you’ll know all about Sir. William Wallace and his contribution to Scotland). We then carried on towards Glencoe and even encountered a family of highland cows (or hairy coos). The ever changing landscape was suitably moody throughout the three day excursion and the Highlands were more gorgeous than I could’ve ever imagined. After Glencoe, we stopped by the Eileen Donan Castle, which has featured in several movies like James Bond 007: Skyfall.

The second day of our tour was the highlight for me. After leaving our accommodation in Kyle of Lochalsh, we explored the Isle of Skye beginning with a two hour hike up to the Old Man of Storr. Windy, rainy and muddy, the views were remarkable! After the climb, we had lunch in Portree, a quaint seaside village. Personally, I loved all the brightly coloured (pink!) houses. Later on, we ventured to our second accommodation at the southern end of the Loch Ness in Fort Augustus. As you probably know, the large loch is famous for hiding the infamous sea monster, Nessie. Unfortunately we didn’t spot her during our stay, but we did encounter some amazing local pubs, gorgeous cathedrals and castles.

The final day was spent travelling back to Edinburgh, stopping in quaint villages along the way and for a whisky tasting at Tomatin Distillery. We also spent some time at the Culloden Battlefield where the 1745 Jacobite rising came to a tragic end. The harrowing mass war grave is an incredibly powerful and sombre experience. We then ventured on towards Inverness and Dunkeld, where we stopped for our final lunch. I had the best coffee and sandwich of the trip!

Our guide, Gillian was hilarious and full of energy. She spent the three days cracking jokes (often of the ginger persuasion) and telling us legends about every monument or sight we saw. I’ve never had such an entertaining tour guide in all my travels.

Not only is Haggis the most affordable tour available, they cater to individuals travelling alone. Our group of thirty or so was incredibly diverse and we all got along so well. Skye High takes you to all the Highland highlights. In fact, we packed in so many sights and activities, that I left feeling as though I’d embarked on a five or six day tour.

Photography by Cooper Morrison-Smith

This post is in partnership with Haggis Tours, but all words and opinions are my own.

September 23, 2018
The Edinburgh Edit

Edinburgh is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited. With its cobblestoned streets and perfectly intact medieval architecture, it’s worth a visit based on looks alone. On my recent trip, I spent a lot of time looking up, mesmerized by the buildings and the views from every angle. A trip to Edinburgh offers the best of both worlds, it’s also brimming with culture, art and superb restaurants, It’s a place that will stay with you for awhile.

Where to stay
While there are plenty of hotels in the city centre, I opted for an Airbnb in Stockbridge. Reasonably priced and beautifully decorated, the bathroom and shower were both teeny tiny. The bedroom was cosy, but the lounge was my favourite part. Stockbridge itself has a village feel to it, it’s much quieter and more local than central Edinburgh. It’s also home to many delightful food and drink options. That said, it’s only a short walk (about 10-15 minutes) to the city centre.

If you’re looking for something closer to the action, G&V Royal Mile Hotel (formerly the Hotel Missoni) or The Witchery are both located on the Royal Mile (the main tourist drag of Edinburgh).

Where to eat
Edinburgh is known for its world-class culinary scene and regardless of whether you’re after a quintessential Scottish feed or something international, it will not disappoint. My absolute favourites are below:

Smith & Gertrude is a lovely Stockbridge institution for wine, cheese and small bites. I was dining alone and the service was impeccable. They even sent me on my way with a loooong list of must-visits.

For the love of cake, make sure you go to Lovecrumbs. They have two locations, one in the city centre and the second in Stockbridge. I ordered the vanilla and rosewater cake with a long black and it was divine!

Everyone told me to try Cowan & Sons, but unfortunately they had a kitchen malfunction when I visited. The menu looks delicious and the space is gorgeous, so make sure you check it out and let me know how it is if you’re in Edinburgh!

I popped into Hyde & Son on my first morning in Edinburgh when the city was still asleep. It gets top points for being open at 7am, for its flakey croissants and delicious cortados.

For one of the best coffees in Edinburgh, you can’t miss Artisan Roast. Again, they have more than one location, but all are perfect places to settle in with a cuppa.

If you love ice cream and cute interiors, be sure to check out Mary’s Milk Bar. It overlooks the Edinburgh Castle, which is an added bonus!

Timberyard has incredible cocktails (like fermented rhubarb and mead), artistic dishes and an industrial interior that appealed to me on all levels.

If you’re after a Michelin-starred meal, you’ll want to visit The Kitchin, one of Edinburgh’s most talked about restaurants by Tom Kitchin. Cuisine here is served on earthy tableware and the menu focuses on seasonal Scottish produce.

Favourite sights
There’s so much to see and do in Edinburgh, and I’d highly recommend wearing comfortable shoes. I averaged about 15km per day and the cobblestone streets are best tackled wearing sneakers.

Edinburgh Castle – While some say it’s slightly overrated and expensive, you can’t miss out on the castle if it’s your first time in Edinburgh. The city views are unbeatable and I was mesmerized by the collection of family jewels on display.

Calton Hill – with its grassy slopes and panoramic views, Calton Hill is one of the most peaceful spots in Edinburgh (despite the steep hike up…) Next to the Nelson Monument, you’ll see the acropolis-style structure designed., which was modelled on the Parthenon in Athens and dedicated to those who lost their lives in the Napoleonic Wars.

Fruitmarket Gallery – right across from Waverley Station (where you may be catching your next train) is a contemporary art space, which occupies a former fruit and vegetable market. It began its life as a gallery in 1974 and has a ‘floating’ roof, allowing natural light to fill the first floor.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery – Refurbished in 2011, the SNPG consists of three floors of portrait and photography collections and a painting of famous Scottish poet, Robert Burns. Be sure to visit the top floor, which features a suite of exhibition rooms.

Favourite shops
Life Story – for a curated selection of furniture, homewares, stationery, prints and jewelry, Life Story is a must! Sourced from around the world, there’s a distinct emphasis on Scandinavian designers.

Epitome – for understated pieces from a variety of Scottish and international designers, Epitome is the place to go. I was eyeing up a pair of Common Projects on my recent visit.

Dick’s – This local shop is full of practical and stylish items, including Shetland jumpers and gorgeous homewares. Had I a bit more space in my luggage, I would’ve surely returned home with one of their copper baskets.

Edinburgh surprised me and surpassed my expectations in every way possible. While I expected to experience a stunning city steeped in history, I was blown away by its sharp, witty personality and appreciation for the arts. Have you been before? I’d love to hear about your favourite spots.

September 20, 2018